Garrison Joe

Here's a few places that do rifle bullet casting: http://www.montanabulletworks.com/7mm_Rifle.html http://www.gardnerscache.com/7mm_145_lfp_sil_g_c.html They have date windows on which you can order - next one is Saturday Aug 29th! http://www.moyerscastbullets.com/rifle.html I haven't any experience with any of these folks' bullets, so you are on your own. For BAM shooting, you may want a fairly hard bullet, so you can get to about 1600-1800 FPS. Look for either 16 Brinell hardness, or "quench hardened" lead alloy or linotype alloy for starters. Most of the time, a gas checked bullet will be what you want, as well, for better accuracy. And heavier bullets with a spire tip often feed through military bolt guns better than flat nosed slugs. Good luck, GJ

About 19-20 grains of Accurate 5744 or 20-21 grains Alliant Reloder 7 would probably be nice for about a 145 or 160 grain cast slug in 7x57, if you can find those powders. 2400 was at one time used a lot, but has become less recommended through the years, and is pretty fast burning for 7mm. And 4227 is another great choice. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is a good friend to BAM rifle shooters! These loads come right outta there. If shooting jacketed slugs, lots of data around for that.... see tons of online data at http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/ Good luck, GJ

Those attitudes might just discourage half the potential ladies who have interest in BAM events from even trying. Better think again, before you cry about how few folks want to shoot BAM matches. Let's make the rules be what we need to attract the shooters we want to attract. If we start putting our egos in front of our rules, we end up like a lot of other non-inclusive gun sports, catering to only a handful of big old guys. Looking down the road to a bigger, happier WB turnout, GJ

If you pards are going for that level of zero external mods, be aware of some obvious unintended consequences. By deciding that a replacement butt pad added to a shortened stock would be illegal on BAM rifles, you prevent small stature shooters (like buckaroos, juniors, some women, some men even) from shooting the BAM rifle comfortably. How would someone who needs a 11.5 inch LOP on their long guns ever be able to shoot BAM well? Especially if the match is not a benchrest match, but a real "stand up and shoot" or "shoot from military positions" match? I'm not aware of any bolt action that would meet BAM requirements originally built with a short LOP. (Most were sized so a 5'6" feller could handle the gun well). I too understand the desire not to allow our competitors to creep the rules (I think we even discussed that a few replies ago in this very thread), but I also understand why on the Cowboy side, shortening a stock to fit the shooter or adding a recoil pad is exempted from the "no external mods" rule. Good luck, GJ

I'd say 1 is fine and 2 is not, but then, I get told by lots of folks I don't know the rules. ;D

Straight lead alloy slugs are hard to keep from leading barrels above about 1400 FPS, even if you use the best possible lubes. And barrel condition contributes a lot. Have you thought about maybe a 1:30 tin-to-lead slug for those dash calibers? That would be what factories "back in the day" were using. How's your bullet weight consistency? Less than about 0.5 grains light to heavy, as cast? Lots of weight variation usually indicates voids in the base area from poor casting techniques....I'm sure you know that, but voids are another common cause of inaccuracy at longer ranges. And the tin in the alloy helps with complete bullet fillout, too. Good luck, GJ

Garand: For the Swede - many a cast bullet shooter has come to believe their accuracy sweet spot is 1500-1600 FPS. No faster! And that military barrel usually has a VERY long throat. And the fast twist needs a heavy for caliber bullet. So, I have worked up some loads that seem good to at least 200 yards (3" groups). They use the Lyman 266673 bullet (150 grains nominal) cast with 16 Brinell hardness lead (air cooled) and gas checked. Sized 0.001 over bore diameter (in my case 0.268). Lubed with Carnuba Red lube from White Label Lube. http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/ Over 2400 or 5744 or Reloader 7. In increasing order of accuracy for me. I tried 4198 but found accuracy fell off from Rx7. Keep on working, either your alloy is a little soft (bullet deforms the long nose during firing) or you are pushing it too slow to stabilize or too fast to hold a good group. Find a chrono to shoot your loads over, with 6.5x55 it's really critical to hit a good muzzle velocity for your gun. Good luck, GJ

You will be real lucky if the Ruger replacement front sight stays on. Per reported experience from several pards here, and in other 1911 forums, they seem to have gotten a big batch of sights that were made from bad steel - perhaps sintered?. Big, tall, heavy front sights just put too much stress on that sight Ruger is still using. Recommend you have a tool steel front sight dovetailed and pinned into the slide when the factory repair fails. Good luck, GJ

If you really do, then nothing is simpler than: ANYTHING more complicated is just .... more complicated. Good luck, GJ

They will work fine. They are harder than needed, though, and I find that hard a slug with our moderate loads will give you a fair amount of leading right in the throat area, even with a very good bullet lube. In fact, Brinnel 12 hardness is harder than is needed for the pressures we shoot at. About 9 BNH is sufficiently hard, and reduced leading to nothing in my 1911. They will NOT be damaging the steel targets. No need to worry about that. Good luck, GJ

Maybe it's just your lighter pouch. ;D Same as BD - I'd not call it as illegal if you are not using it as one of your mag pouches. Some folks on the Cowboy side have bullet loops on their holsters. They are (usually) empty. It's a no call everywhere I've ever been - no one even mentions it.

Almost certainly that was caused by a squib that, as you surmised, stuck the bullet most of the way into the barrel. Mag primers or a slug that is groove diameter or slightly under sized makes this more likely. 1911 barrels are pretty thin out by the muzzle. Overpressure (excessive loads) in 1911's more often splits open the chamber (have seen a couple of shooters do that, too). But a stuck slug - bulges or splits the barrel closer to where the squibbed slug stuck. Stopping a shooter who has just encountered a squib in the 1911 is VITALLY important to prevent gun damage. I believe more TO's need to be thinking "call the squib if there is one" right before they touch the timer button. The infrequent squibs (seems I save my year's allotment so they appear at EOT) that I get, I call on myself, rather than the TO yelling it out. Good luck, GJ

Now, the closest example of what we have done so far in WB is with the Win Model 12. Winchester also made, on I suppose the exact same equipment, the Model 25, a solid-frame light weight cheaper variation of the Model 12. Our rules allow only the Model 12. Several folks have asked over the years, can I run a Model 25? The answer has always been NO. Several folks have pointed out that some guns were made to the Model 25 specs but were stamped Model 12. Those have been allowed in, as no one really wanted to have to get out the collector's books and serial numbers lists (if they even exist) and noodle out whether it is really a 25 or a 12. Just go by model stamped on the gun, and make life simple and easy both for Match Directors and shooters trying to decide in a gun shop whether a gun is legal for WB or not. I think we have exactly the same problem here with the Yugo model numbers. Except the rules for BAM rifles did not list acceptable models numbers, just the phrase (approximately) "built and could have been issued up to the end of WW II." The easy way - knowing that the Yugo Mausers were model numbered for the year of design, and anything designed before 1946 is good for BAMM. The hard way - trying to cipher out various variations and loopholes and waving of arms about the gun being built on the same production line, except something like 20 years later (after the end of WW II in the case of the Model 48). Priceless - having clear rules that all of us are willing to follow, no exceptions, no wiggle room. And, if a club wants to allow some newer model at local matches, they are sure free to do so - just let the shooter know it won't fly at a major match. You do realize most Mod 48 Yugos have bent bolt handles and the Mod 24 and 24/47s have straight handles? The biggest, but not the only, improvement in those later model guns?

Degeneration to a personal level argument? Nope, not going there.

Believe some serious thinking is needed here. Either rules mean what they say, or you can have a bunch of hidden decisions behind them with loopholes. I think it's time WB rules really mean what they say. Then, if they say the wrong things, correct the rules. Please don't clog up the rules with unwritten exceptions, that require folks to have intimate knowledge of now- defunct factories in a communist country, and how they either reworked or built new rifles almost 70 years ago. Keep it straight forward, and let the rules mean what they say. I'd rather not have WB handbook a clutter like Cowboy rules have become. Good luck, GJ

Ummmm. Heartburn time. page 17, WB Shooter's Handbook The Model 48 Yugo was never issued to military forces of any country through the end of WW II. Are you claiming the Yugo 48 qualifies because it is a "faithful reproduction" of the Model 24? It sure is not marked as such. And, comparing my 48 with a 24/47, there are lots of little things, and some big things, different between them. I don't follow your line of reasoning. Good luck, GJ

WBT - Thanks, I never look at Cabela's web site, so I might have to peek at it. Normally way over my price-value range, and no local store to go pick it up at. GJ PS: Oh, I see they have bulk PPU 6.5x55 brass in stock, too. Less than $60 a hundred. That might just be worth paying shipping for. I normally buy more than just 20 at a time.... OH, they've got bulk Nosler brass too in stock now. Now we're talking. Thanks, GJ

I believe I would, should someone show up with a Yugo M48, have to say that that was not a WW II rifle, and thus would not be eligible under our current BAMM rules. Those variations on the Mauser design of the M24 Yugo were designed in '48 and all built starting with 1948. Thus, unfortunately, not in rules compliance. However, the Yugo 24/47 makes a very nice BAMM rifle. That was a Model 24 rifle, rebarreled and refurbished in Yugo arsenals from 1947 forward. Prvi Partisan makes ammo in 8x57 and sometimes other ammo and brass manufacturers turn out a little. The K31 (Swiss) also is a good BAMM rifle. Several specimens have been circulating through gun shops recently. And the Swedish M96 Mauser and later variations are very nice and in good shape, usually. Although their chambering (6.5x55 "Swede") is a little more of a challenge to shoot cast bullets through, as it needs a very long bullet to fill the throat. And brass is even harder to run down. Good luck, GJ

I've seen bunches of squibs in a 1911. NEVER has the slide cycled. Tip of the week - if you yank the slide back and an empty case pops out, you had a squib, not a failure to feed a round. :D Check that barrel! Good luck, GJ

I'd probably send it in to CC and let him take a look. Sounds like at least the cartridge stops are not working 100% and are failing to let the shells out of mag. Of course, it could be you -short stroking the 97 while trying to go fast will jam it up right now. Try shooting in practice sessions and see if full strokes solve the problem. Good luck, GJ

I've got a Hunter Leather Whelen 1" sling on my Swede. Looks about right, and is very adjustable, as compared to the original Mauser slings, which were closer to carrying straps than to a good sling. Takes a little study to get it rigged the first time. http://www.huntercompany.com/HunterCatalog/files/assets/basic-html/page32.html Model 220. And if you want the hooks for adjustment rather than laces, the Model 200 in 1" width will give you a good sling, too. Good luck, GJ

(bolding added) I would say, from your description, the shooter would earn a MSV for clearing the jam with the mag out of the gun and allowing that loose round to chamber and then firing it. Inserting an empty mag with the slide down would not help this situation, it would just add more time. (Besides, how would the TO or others know for sure that you are putting an empty mag in?) Rack the slide to remove the jammed cartridge and lock slide back, then insert fresh mag. One could use a Barney Fife (single round) magazine very easily in this situation to avoid having to clear 4 unfired rounds from the gun after firing one round to end the sequence.

No. The rules only specify that pistol ammunition must be charged from magazines. Rules do not require any specific number of mag pouches, just that IF mag pouches are used, they must comply with several restrictions, most of which are very traditional and make lots of sense. If a shooter wanted to penalize himself with the extra reaching needed to get to mags on a table or prop or a pocket, why not let them? Only if the pocket was specially engineered to do things that the rules prohibit mag pouches from doing, would there be any concern. WR and EOT have both allowed shooters to place all mags on props or tables or in pockets. It has never been an advantage to do so. And there are usually at least one or two stages where you can save a lot of time by starting to move, drawing mag from pouch on the run and inserting mag as you slide to a stop at next shooting position. Definitive? Around here? Well, good luck. ;D

If you want the official, full 500 pounds of instructions for running power factor testing at a really big match, go read the appendix of the WB match director's guide. I was trying to give the OP a feel for what works in a practical way for a small match. Whoo, boy, no good intentions ever go unpunished, huh? Why don't you fellers just go shoot? ;D

Yep, the chrono TEAM should have their procedure down pat. Try it out at a monthly WB match to make sure the equipment works, you get velocities that are consistent and agree with other chrono experience, that you understand the light conditions in which the equipment works best (most new ones like full sun on the "screens"). A team is needed, one to record/calculate and one to shoot. You don't let the individual shooters fire over the chrono unless you want the equipment plugged at least once!! A couple boxes of good "calibrated velocity" ammo to check that your chrono is not on the fritz each day would be good. Extra batteries and screens are a necessity. An extra chrono does not hurt (except in the wallet). The way that seems to work the best is have shooters come by the chrono bay either before first day starts (long lines), or perhaps in posse rotation through the stages (cuts down the waiting). They bring their guns (1911 and rifle) and ten rounds of pistol and ten of rifle. Their guns are shot by the chrono shooter over the equipment with four or five rounds. Be consistent with pointing muzzle of each gun up (or down, but if you decide to do that, realize it will give lower velocities) before each shot. Get the average, record it. Ask shooter for bullet weight, record that. Calculate PF for rifle and for pistol. Any failures can be retested immediately with their spare ammo. Any DQs are informed immediately so they don't shoot rest of match. Keep good records - not just back of a scrap envelope. Shooting with common "club" guns can be done, but realize that each gun barrel can be quite a bit different in velocity readings. And then realize you would need 4 rifles to cover most calibers in WB (38-40, 44-40, 44 spl or mag and 45 Colt). Better to use the shooter's own rifles and pistols! The Chrono Team reports to the Match Director only. Not to posse marshals, not to range safety officer. This is the MD's match, and he resolves any problems. Have a kinetic bullet puller ready if it seems that the self-stated weights are not quite right or you have a PF number come in right at the border line where the actual bullet weight could make a difference. Hang a target or other disposable object out in the back of the bay for the designated shooter to use as a sighting target. It is amazing how easy it is to loose focus while shooting hundreds of rounds over a chrono and end up pulling a trigger while muzzle is pointed at the screen stands or the electronics of the unit! And weight down the stand with a sandbag or two, even if the weather forecast says no wind. There is ALWAYS wind when you drag out a chronograph. The first time you do this officially, you probably want to test all shooters. Big matches have been sampling some of the "potential winners" and "usual on-the-edge suspects" and a random selection of others for power tests. Maybe they test one or two from each posse. Sometimes match officials just collect a baggie of ammo with shooter's name on it and bullet weights. Shoot it in club guns, and if a problem pops up, they retest with shooter's match guns. Good luck, GJ