Garrison Joe

What you are seeing is a real tight sizing die which is reducing case diameter down to about 0.468" or so. Then you shove the expander button in it, just wide and deep enough to get the bullet to fit with a little tension, and a LITTLE bit of flare at the very mouth to ensure bullet starts straight. As BD already stated, it's very normal. Function trumps perfectly pretty all day long. You could hone out the sizer die with some carbide based grinding/polishing compound - if it is a carbide die. Or with a normal adjustable reamer if it is a steel die. But I wouldn't bother. All my match ammo is slightly wasp-waisted. A flat-based slug will leave a lot more visible ridge showing at the slug's base than a bevel-based slug. And check OAL of your loaded rounds. Most 230 grain slugs are very long behind the nose. The base can be extending way down in the case if you seat deep. Seat them deep enough that the curve of the nose ogive starts RIGHT at the mouth of the case - if you seat deeper, the case mouth is unsupported, and if shallower, the nose starts to hit factory barrel throat and lands. Good luck, GJ

Well, Them's WASHERS the category scores. The Overall WB is a short report at: http://www.winterrange.com/wb2018overall.pdf You see, B40, the way that WB Stage Point scoring is done currently, it's possible to get overall results that rank different than the top shooters in the fast categories on the Categories report. In 2017, it worked out well and the Overall matched up with the Categories data. Just taking a wild guess, perhaps this year it didn't work out quite that cleanly. Although suggestions have been made for a slight mod to the scoring system which would prevent that, none of the big WB matches have decided to try that cleaner way. Sigh. Good luck, GJ

At the lower end of traditional 1911a1 guns, lots of pards have good results with a Remington R1. Black out the white dots on sights and it's legal. If you are worried that you won't be able to get parts in case Remington doesn't survive it's umpteeen-million-th bankruptcy / reorganization efforts...... I wouldn't worry, because standard 1911A1 parts from any after market manufacturer of repute will fit. I shoot a Colt Series 70 with over 100,000 rounds through it, and it's still tight and accurate. Backup gun - same, just made 40 years later then the original. Guess I like Colts. Good luck, GJ

To answer what started this off, you say that a gunshow would have something and "would it work?" Well, local or on-line gun dealers, or other shooters, usually have much better matches to your needs at lower prices. One of the new-manufacture Series 70 Colt 1911A1s run about $1000 to $1100 new, and would be a better gun for WB traditional. And the Remington R1 at about $600 or so would be even more cost effective. A more modern gun would be a good choice for Modern category. (Duh) So, like so many gun show "finds" - that one you have seen is neither a good choice for either of the games you are talking about, nor all that good a deal. That one was built to be a collector item mostly, for those interested in the 1911 original model. Even though it (a 1911 model) is representative of the TIME that Wild Bunch covers, remember, we are not a RE-ENACTOR org, we are largely a shooting org, and the value the gun has to be shot quickly and accurately is real important in the long run of things. And the 1911A1 design was a major improvement over the original 1911 in "fast and accurate and controllable by most shooters." Good luck, GJ

Yep. To avoid penalties of any sort, have the slide locked open (not held open) when you move. Good luck, GJ

As you will find in the rule book, the old small "military" sights are not required for either of the two major styles of shooting in Wild Bunch. They can be used, but they are very hard to find quickly. Even in the Traditional category, it is legal to go to a taller front sight with more definition, and a matching taller rear sight (as long as they are not screw-adjustable blade rear sights). Modern category guns can have adjustable rear sights - please see the specs in the rule book. You first should decide for Wild Bunch whether you want to shoot in Modern (two hands holding pistol) or Traditional (one hand on gun) style. This decides a lot of what the gun can be. Realize that one-handed means you need to be pretty capable of quickly managing and recovering from the recoil of almost-factory 45 auto levels, and of working the controls almost exclusively with your strong hand (that is, the slide stop and mag release button). Most shooters are not all that capable of handling that recoil and quickly working the controls. It takes a medium size hand and a firm grip. There's four times as many folks competing in the Modern style of categories than in the Traditional. And they generally shoot faster in Modern. A couple of visits to Wild Bunch matches will help you fix your category/style. And introduce you to the common 1911 guns used in your desired category. Then you can make a great choice of 1911s. Good luck, GJ

We did see that on our posse once. It was fortunately not called out loud while shooter continued through stage, but the MSV penalty was simply applied at the end of the run. Shooter was relieved it was not the SDQ he expected..... It's a good reduction of severity based upon the lack of a real hazard. But it remains a slightly difficult one to adopt your TO style and habits to. Good luck, GJ

I shot all seven to slide lock, as I was used to with just 5'ers. I've been shooting seven in mag for everything but Bordertown for almost a year now. Saw several folks have problems trying to do the 6 and recharge. With the sweeps at WR set for seven or multiples, usually, they could forget to finish their current sweep after charging mag. As a traditional shooter very used to hitting the slide release with shooting thumb, I could not gain much time at all, I would think. Perhaps the modern shooters can, but I doubt it. A tactical reload didn't seem to help anyone I saw shooting them. A year's worth of practice by those shooters may make a difference. A 6 shot sweep might make it attractive, too. IMHO, a tactical reload is most valuable when you never can have your gun empty (as in a real gunfight). Since our targets don't try to shoot back as you are slapping a mag in, well, it is just a game. ;) Guess we will see another demo of it at EOT. Good luck, GJ

But my best cast bullet loads with 8 Mauser is with 5744 - I push the 170 grain slug at about 1550 FPS in my Yugo 24/47. Good luck, GJ

Use the "general purpose" recipe for TB loads for light rifle cast bullet loads! See: https://www.hodgdon.com/resources/data-sheets/ and punch up the Trail Boss light loads. That should get you to: https://www.hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/trail-boss-reduced-loads-r_p.pdf Follow the 3 steps to figure out where to start. Good luck, GJ

TM - No, I'm going to guess it will be hard for us to stay in a proper position to see the slide racking, if it happens. Especially since we have not really been practicing doing that and watching closely, since racking has not been part of the standard drill before (only on recovery from failure to lock back). As I say, this year will be one of testing the waters on the new rules. GJ

TM - I too have concerns about when to call. I'm probably going to take the route of stay quiet regardless of what I THINK the gun condition is, until shooter stops at next position. Then watch to see what pops out when the slide gets racked. If a live round comes out upon racking, well, SDQ called then. If no round, remember a Minor Safety that will be given at end of string. No way for shooter to correct it during stage, once he takes steps. So no need to call anything out loud for the MSV until the end. Don't just look down to see if a live round is on ground to tell difference between the SDQ and MSV call. It could well have popped off the top of a magazine being drawn from holster and loaded. And, unfortunately, the spotters probably will rarely be able to help the TO to make the call. It will all hinge on the TO's ability to position himself to the right side of shooter as the shooter comes to a stop, and to be WATCHING the gun as slide is racked. Now, we will also want to speak up if shooter lays down the 1911 with slide forward. Shooter has until next gun fired to correct that. A verbal warning would help shooter avoid a MSV for having re-staged an empty 1911 with slide closed. I believe we will find this (TO seeing the slide rack clearly) to be a hard thing to do when RO'ing high speed shooters and when dodging around props. WR will make a good proving ground. ;) (Wish it had been put together with simplicity for shooter and TO in mind.) If a TO does make a SDQ call out loud and realizes that was a bad call, do not be afraid to (ask for ability to give reshoot, which major matches are requiring, and then) give the reshoot for having interfered with the run. Good luck, GJ

Now, if other folks are being swept by that muzzle, it's a SDQ, or an MDQ if the gun was loaded. So, make sure you understand why a call is being made!

Nope, penalty is the same regardless of the status (loaded, loaded and chambered, OR unloaded) of the firearm. If at the firing line and you break the 170 degree boundary, you have earned a SDQ penalty. See bottom of page 20 of the shooter's handbook where the SDQ penalty section is. Good luck, GJ

Yee Haw! Way to go, troopers! May you shoot just as well as you filled out your applications for this match! ;D (That is, None of you 133 missed the box for Wild Bunch match!) See y'all there! GJ

About 1500 FPS +/- (estimated, haven't shot that one over chrony) And about 1550 FPS on the 5744 (per instruments) Good luck, GJ

RCBS has a nice 170 grain RNFP mold in .323 diameter if you want to cast your own. I make them about 16 Brinnell hardness (wheelweights with 25% linotype in it), Hornady gas check, White Label Carnuba Red lube, and load over 20 grains of 5744 or 18 grains of 4227. I can usually keep those under 2 MOA. Not a lot of commercial sources for cast rifle bullets, and 8MM are not a common one even if you find someone casting. Getting them from Hoodoo or Purcella is an easy way to start. Good luck, GJ

I intentionally don't pay attention to resetting trigger at all. I don't worry about recoil recovery. I sure don't do the method #2 you listed. I concentrate (as a one-handed shooter) on tightly controlling recoil to minimize muzzle flip, then getting front sight moved over the next target and slapping trigger. (OMG, he slaps the trigger? ;) ) Only on far targets (20 yards and smaller than a bread box) do I concentrate on a "smooth squeeze". I don't "wait" for anything when I'm running the 1911. (Well, I do wait for mag to fall out before getting next mag started in mag well.) So, pull->move to next while recovering any flip->sight picture->pull. Finger tip simply releases all pressure on trigger but contact is maintained (to minimize motion to pull again). Works for me - after 40 years of practice. ;D May not work for you. Good luck, GJ

Thanks for that bit of data, Goatneck. I've not shot a poly coated bullet, and from things I've read on Cast Boolits site, don't think I will for rifle loads. Too many molds to try and not enough time.... ;D Good luck, GJ

170 grain bullet - Wasn't legal in the 2017 or earlier versions of the rules, either. So, doesn't matter if you haven't read 2018 version. 180 grain is the minimum, and a 185 nominal slug is the lightest any reasonable person would want to load, (in case you get a batch that are running lighter than nominal weight, you will still pass the bullet weigh-in if you are selected for a Power Factor check). Good luck, GJ

Cast Boolits forum has a great article on "The Load" that works for most bolt action military guns of the 20th century. It's here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?13425-Cast-Bullet-Loads-for-Military-Rifles-Article The article is long, but the summary is a set of four different levels of power: 1. 125 grain plain based "small game/gallery" 900-1000 f.p.s., 5 grains of Bullseye or equivalent pistol powder. 2. 150 grain plain based "100-yard target/small game", 1050-1250 f.p.s., 7 grains of Bullseye or equivalent pistol powder. 3. 170-180 grain gas checked "200 yard target", 1500-1600 f.p.s., 16 grains of Alliant 2400 or equivalent. 4. 180-200 grain gas-checked "deer/600 yard target", 1750-1850 f.p.s., 26 grains of Reloder7 or equivalent. I will certify that the #3 load is a sweet shooting target load, and is quite good for all the bolt action rifles I've tried it in, from 6.5 Swede to 30-06 to 8 mm Mauser. And it will work with a slight powder weight reduction with a lighter (150 grain) slug. Keep velocity below about 1600 FPS and almost any gun will shoot good groups and not lead the barrel. There's tons more info in the C.E. Harrison article that is at the URL. 4759 is a great powder for cast bullet loads - except you cannot buy it anymore. Stopped production about the end of 2015 and ALL the store stock has disappeared. IF you decide to shoot cast bullet loads, you will normally need to scrub all the copper fouling out of the barrel before trying to get reasonable groups with cast bullets. The poly-coated bullets may be a little more forgiving and let you switch between jacketed and poly loads - I've not heard results from anyone on that point. Good luck, GJ

About the only big match that is semi-lost brass is Winter Range, but if you are willing to stay until folks are done shooting each day, you used to be able grab a "suitable amount" of spent brass from what fell on the ground during each day when it is cleaned up by fellow shooters. In 2016 and 2017, WR was able to get enough Boy Scouts to turn out after school on week days that they did go to lost brass (with a sell-back which didn't work all that well). So, for Winter Range, assume you will either lose the WB brass or pay more than the range brass is worth (perhaps you consider it a good cause). Almost ALL other WB matches, large and small, are picked up as the shooter goes through. EOT WB is shagged after each shooter by some of the local Albuquerque area Boy Scouts (and tips that go to camping supplies and equipment are willingly accepted). There is more brass to be shagged in this game than in Cowboy, but also more of the WB posse seems willing and able to shag brass as we go. EVERY monthly or state match in NM and AZ I have ever been to shags as the shooter finishes the stage. So, I'd say what you have been told is not close to most WB reality. :o And worrying about losing brass at WR is among the least of my worries, considering that small cost in the big scheme of WR expenses. I have heard of a few clubs that have lots of props, and they hold off brass recovery until end of day, and they jointly pick up and split the brass. I'm not sure they save much time doing that. And it's less satisfying to each shooter. Good luck, GJ

There is NO reason I know of that, when folks developed the Stage Point Scoring reports in a couple of the software scoring programs, they left out the raw time, misses and penalty data. They made a BAD mistake when they did, because it becomes hard for a shooter to track strengths, weaknesses and possible ways to improve. It also becomes impossible for shooters after the fact to verify that results were correctly entered and tabulated. :-[ Yes, the extra data takes more space. That could have been provided by adding another row to the stage point score line for each competitor. Those details really are important - perhaps more so than powdered sugar on sugar cookies! Good luck, GJ

Now that you have explained a lot more. There is ALMOST no way that you will have a problem with mild Cowboy and even (moderate) Wild Bunch loads with Trail Boss powder with any commercial bullet loaded to 1.55" instead of 1.58" Trail Boss is an expensive powder to use. Red Dot would be easily available and quite a bit cheaper. Or Clays. Both cheaper by quite a bit, and still have a large enough volume to see powder levels in the case. You will still need that Lyman Cast Bullet handbook on your loading shelf. And you do not even need any loading equipment except a powder scale or set of Lee dippers to do the powder height test I laid out for you. You WILL need a fairly short nose bullet to hold length as short as you are planning. A short-nose RNFP may be the only way you get a length down to 1.550". MY 200 grain TC bullets I would not be able to load to much under 1.570" because the nose is too long. In other words, DO NOT buy a ton of reloading components UNTIL you (or a friend of yours) can load some test rounds to check for BOTH compatible OAL and a mild to moderate load that shoots well from your gun. Winter is when shooters often have extra time to try out new loads (even if you have to brave the elements to shoot 'em)! Good luck, GJ

Tully - Fire and Ice at Cowtown! http://www.dustybunch.com/fire_&_ice.htm Good luck trooper! GJ