Garrison Joe

I have had serious repair work (including timing resetting, locking recess recutting) done by NuLine Guns in Missouri. They are also a GREAT source of new old stock M12 parts, since they bought a lot of Winchester parts stock decades ago. http://www.nulineguns.com/ You are a few years too late to have either Herb Orre or Stu Wright, both of whom worked in Pinckneyville, IL, work on your 12. I had Stu sleeve a badly bulged M12 chamber coming from a previous owner getting carried away with high pressure loads. Those two were Model 12 geniuses. But there is a younger guy now at Mann's Gunshop that I have heard does lots of Winchester shotgun work, by the name of Justin. 618-357-2911 If you just want your M12 slicked up, there are several SASS/WB gunsmiths who can do that. See other folks' posts. good luck, GJ

Although no one has posted round counts yet, typical "big match" WB round counts (average per stage) run about 35 pistol, 8 rifle and 7 shotgun per stage. Multiply by the 12 stages they expect to put up, and you can see the ammo needed for the WB match. Then take another 100-200 pistol, 100 rifle and 100-200 shotgun for spares and side matches (which have not been called out yet either), and you know how big the pack mule is going to have to be. Be SURE you have chronographed your loads and calculated power factors for ammo shot from your 1911 and rifle. Big matches always chrono a sample of shooters and their ammo. 160 PF is a good average power factor to "shoot" for. good luck, GJ

I use a 19# mainspring (rather than 17#), but really do like the 15# recoil spring. That is all that is needed if you only shoot WB level loads. If you would expect to shoot a lot of factory or hotter loads, then the factory standard 23 and 16 springs make sense. If you don't have a rounded-bottom-edge firing pin retainer, it makes a big difference in racking the slide to load a round. Firing pin and spring - I usually let go for 25,000 rounds. Extractor - when I no longer see fired brass piling up in my usual location about 6 feet from gun, and about 30-45 degrees back from the firing line. Or when I get 10% of case mouths dinged up. A "10-8 extractor test" or a "shake-the-slide-with-dummy-round-under-extractor test" gets performed periodically - maybe once a year. good luck, GJ

I replace those two springs at about 5,000 rounds. I often use Wilson springs, but Wolff are fine by me too. And when replacing the mainspring, I usually put in a new sear (three-fingered) spring. Flat springs are not long life springs. good luck, GJ

I've seen folks report that GD works fine at our "moderate" power factors. Lyman cast bullet loading data shows it to be very safe to run in .45 auto loading. It won't be as clean and accurate as WST when loading .45 auto. But it will function the 1911 just fine. BTW - If you are chasing a slightly slower burn rate powder to try to get less felt recoil in the 1911, that is a hard goal to achieve. Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook data for .45 auto calls for 4.8 grains Green Dot under a 225 grain cast bullet to make 725 FPS. That would be 163 Power Factor, if your pistol shoots like Lyman's test gun did. Or about 5.4 grains to make 750 FPS with a 200 grain cast bullet. As always, chronograph the loads in your gun to make sure you meet PF. good luck, GJ

OK, the weak extractor can be tightened with judicious bending. Look for the instructions to "tension a 1911 extractor" on the internet. It can be done with $200 tensioning tools, or with a padded vise, a small piece of tubing or pipe, and a few fittings back into the slide. Bend the front half so the hook moves toward the center line of the slide more. It won't take much deformation of the extractor. Even if you buy a new one, you should check the hook's geometry and the tension when installed in your slide. So it's worth knowing how to do extractor tensioning. (Or know where to find your gunsmith when you need it done in a hurry....) And, 1911 extractors will not tighten up with use. They get looser. (Unless there's crud jammed in the extractor bore of the slide) Good luck, GJ

Usually the way to fix ejection forward is to tune the extractor tension, then also tune the HOOK angles. Kuhnhausen's 1911 shop manual shows an excellent diagram and some explanation of how to to that, IIRC. I have used Bill Wilson's reference page to do this task, too. https://www.m1911.org/technic2.htm But before you get to filing on things, blacken up the slide's ejection port all around, and the bolt face, and the extractor hook. Fire a few rounds, and look for shiny brass marks on any part of slide, and see what part of the hook is getting marked by the rim during extraction. If the slide port is taking hits on the lower edge of port, the extractor hook needs beveling as shown in Wilson's diagram, on the lower half of the hook, so the top is pulling and the bottom is just guiding loaded rounds up out of magazine and under the hook. If the rearward edge of port is taking hits, the case is starting out coming to the rear but is bouncing off the slide. Check the tension on the extractor using the dummy-round-snapped-under extractor on a slide removed from the frame. Shake it - if the round pops loose, the extractor needs a little more tension. Too much tension, and round won't feed up out of magazine and under the hook. Low tension on extractor is a common cause of forward ejecting. And also check the ejector. Sometimes a longer 9mm type ejector has been installed - that does not always help with ejection. Use a .45 auto shape ejector. Again, see Kuhnhausen. If you find you can't get your Armscorp extractor to hold consistent tension, I would recommend a Wilson Bullet Proof extractor: https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Extractor-70-Series-45-ACP-Bullet-Proof-Blue/productinfo/415-70/ Finally, running the "10-8 extraction" test may help you understand some of the problem(s) coming during extraction/ejection, and will let you test that you got the problem eliminated. https://modernserviceweapons.com/?p=131 Good luck, GJ

Not really normal, but if you leave one laying in a magnetic parts dish or hanging off a magnetic screwdriver shaft, it might happen. Not a problem firing. The mainspring is MUCH stronger force than the magnetic attraction will ever be. I would wipe the FP off with a rag each time before reassembling it in slide, just in case it picked up a steel sliver while lying on your work bench. A degausser for magnetic tape will demagnetize that pin if you want to be sure. Look at a full stock high-end audio shop. Good luck, GJ

I round off the lower back corner of the firing pin retainer, or get a commercial retainer plate that is already fixed. Cuts more effort than you would think! Swap springs for a 19# main and a 15# recoil spring, and I find most ladies can handle the slide fine. Good luck, GJ

Mine too. Dovetail the slide. Good luck, GJ

And how would you get the bead up high enough to give you correct bullet impact on target? Use a conventional sight, or the sight recommended above with a bead insert. Then you have a rugged sight that withstands repeated draws from leather and gives you a precise sight picture. It is rare anymore that I even see a shotgun bead when I shoot my SGs. Too much clays shooting has shown me that I don't have to (and shouldn't, even) look at the barrel and bead. Good luck, GJ

And try Graf's and Powder Valley too. I have especially found Graf's able to keep many powders in stock during this whole virus-aster. Good luck, GJ

Cause rules are rules. ;) It's primarily to get folks to focus a little more during shotgun shooting, I believe. And to encourage loads above the wimpy-light SG loads used in Cowboy shooting - so something that is closer to factory loads. What the knockdown stands are sitting in really makes almost no difference in how hard it is to get a knockdown to fall. If you feel the targets are not properly calibrated to go down, take it up with the individual match director. After shooting major matches through the Southwest for 10+ years, I never have had a problem with a WB SG knockdown going down. Good luck, GJ

For shotgun and rifle reloads, I have been very well served by a Mernickel combination shell slide that has 4 SG and 5 rifle loops on it. That snaps right over my gun belt. Simple, simple, simple. If I feel a need to have more, I have a separate shotgun shell belt, AND of course I can stage SG rounds on stages that have horizontal surface props, too. Pistol reloads will ALWAYS be done in WB by pulling another magazine. Never by loading a loose round in the 1911. That's prohibited anyway. I'd suggest 6 total magazine holders on your gun belt. You can spread them around your waist now, but I still like all of mine on the off-side from the holster and 1911. 3 holders that have two mag pouches in each and that tuck together for minimal belt space are my favorite. Mernickel has some nice ones, for example. Your local matches may only have 21 or 28 round limited pistol count, but if you go to any major matches, you will find stages up to 42 pistol rounds! Good luck, GJ

Around here, our TOs are pretty consistently giving JUST 1 warning, and second is a SDQ MS. Anything less stringent than that becomes a "record keeping exercise" Good luck, GJ Fixed penalty severity

I would not shoot military bolt rifles at 25 yards. It completely takes out requirements to have knowledge of windage and trajectory. And safety aspects of a 1500+ FPS lead bullet (most with gas checks) at 25 yards on a STEEL target is a challenge. Shooting that close would have to be on paper, and that is not usually very interesting for most folks used to steel target shooting. I'd think with your range conditions (30 yards, no resetting or paper repair), I would not even consider it. And I am a BIG proponent of BAMM matches. But, I am a rifle shooter from way back and greatly enjoy the challenges that come about from moderate to longer ranges. Shooters that shoot short ranges like 30 yards will not learn much for their future performance at conventional BAMM matches. Even Appleseed matches shoot 50 and 100 yards, AFAIK. I have some about-life-size sparrow targets I cut from 3/8" mild steel. I have shot those at 25 yards offhand with bolt and semi-auto 22 LR. THAT is kinda fun. Good luck, GJ

Go to the main SASS Wire. Look up member "Roger Rapid" Or go to this link, which I got by doing exactly that: https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/profile/72108-roger-rapid/ Send him a Private Message. Wait for him to reply. (Don't believe he's registered on the WB forum, as his name does not show on a search in the Wild Bunch side) Good luck, GJ

Ditto for Blackfoot's experience. Poor function and fit in a couple of pistol types (but I have no Colt 1908 for direct experience). Good luck, GJ

Think you will find most folks use Magtech/CBC brass successfully. Here's a thread on 1911 Forum about Magtech brass - https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=380814 Although I prefer Starline, Remington or Federal brass, I use all headstamps that I can tell what they are, excluding Amerc. Good luck, GJ

All .45 auto brass but Amerc I use. Magtech/CBC is made in Brazil, but I find it works well. Sellier and Bellot brass has tight primer pockets, but I swage the pockets with a Dillon pocket swager and they work fine too. Same for Fiocchi brass. I'd think your Magtech might work in your new barrel if you resize the very base of the brass. Use a Lee Bulge Buster kit that takes high-pressure bulges out of .45 auto cases! There are certainly several reasons for 45 rounds not to chamber - including too fat a nose for the seating depth, a swollen base, a barrel that has no throat at all, etc. A poor crimp is not one of the common reasons. Some Winchester brass has a tight pocket even though it's not mil crimped in. Those get swaged out to standard size, too. Of course, any military brass should be checked for a crimped primer pocket and enlarged as needed. I've begun removing all mil brass that is head stamped before 1980 as those earlier lots of brass are cracking a lot as they are fired. Good luck, GJ

Must be a right coast thing, since AMERC is cobbled together in Florida, IIRC. We are not finding much here.

Do not load AMERC brass. It is so badly made it is not worth keeping. I smash mine with a hammer or pliers and it goes directly in recycle box. I don't want any going on the ground at the range that would have been MY FAULT for it being there. Almost all other brass I find I can make work. AMERC cannot be fixed, except by melting into plumbing fixtures. I'm glad now that I see almost none of it anymore. Good luck, GJ

SO EASY TO CHECK THIS! Use your calipers and measure outside diameter of your loads right at the case mouth. Brass should be at 0.471 or 0.472" More than that, tighten the taper crimp. Smaller diameter than that, you are over working your brass and digging deeply into the bullet. Roll crimping? You are doing the WRONG CRIMP!! Good luck, GJ

Bullets seated too far out, ogive on nose is jamming into the lands of barrel. Get a chamber check gauge (for loaded rounds) and test your loads. This is a very common problem, just that you have not run into it with your IJ (and the RIA) because the barrel bore seems VERY sloppy. Most 1911 barrels have a VERY short throat ahead of the chamber. The chances that you picked up several (used?) barrels that are all too tightly chambered for good ammo is minimal. Your ammo is loaded so it jams into the lands, I would guess. Good luck, GJ

Following is what has worked well for me. I find a firm grip is REQUIRED for quickly shooting a 1911 one handed. Grip it about like you would the neck of a rattlesnake that you don't like. ;D Not so hard your hand shakes, but close. That keeps the recoil directed back into your arm and shoulder instead of flipping the wrist and bending the elbow, both of which take the sights off target. Concentrate on keeping the gun level during recoil, even if it rises a little. It's easier to drop the whole gun than to tip sights back down precisely. Make sure your finger's first PAD is on the trigger, not the joint towards the end of your trigger finger. The joint will push the muzzle to the left (right hander) as you break the trigger. Shots very low and left fired by right handed shooter - are often a flinch indicator. To conquer that, you will have to learn to NOT ANTICIPATE the gun going off. A crisp and short trigger travel helps with this, even if you can't set the pull weight much lighter than about 3.5 pounds for safe operation. Good luck, GJ