Garrison Joe

Big money to replace a barrel, especially if it shoots well as installed by RIA. Lots of labor, as even the drop-in barrels often are not as easy as the name makes it sound. And not a job for a first time 1911 surgeon, as some things require some special tooling and measurements. So, WHERE on the existing barrel are rub points or tight spots when you install the barrel or work the slide with gun empty? If replacing the barrel simply because of "rub marks" - that is not very wise. If you do not change dimensions where that barrel was fitted to the gun (the locking lugs, the under-lugs on the barrel, the chamber fit to the feed ramp, or the last inch of the barrel where the barrel bushing rides, you can probably file and sand on your factory barrel to clean up cosmetic drag scars or slight rub marks. Maybe take a few pictures of the barrel (or a disappointing target at 10 yards) showing what you don't like right now. good luck, GJ (just GJ, or Joe, or you can spell it out, too. And MR? I keep thinking my Dad (a 1st Sgt in 82nd Airborne in three theaters in WW II) might be looking over my shoulder as I i write. ☺️)

General recommendation for making cowboy/WB shot loads, which are almost always loaded lighter than the minimum starting load normally published by Hodgdon or Alliant or VitaVouri, is to start with a 3/4 ounce wad and the powder weight from a 7/8 ounce load. Although there is a trend recently in conventional shotshell loading (trap, skeet, sporting clays) to load lighter payloads, they usually drop the shot weight to 3/4 ounce and add a little more powder to a published 7/8 or 1 ounce load and accept a higher velocity (like 1250 or 1300 FPS). That type of load does not make friends on the Cowboy range and has more recoil than you want when shooting fast. So, loads for Cowboy shells are almost never found in a published manual! They do not have a lot of "conventional" use. You have to either try stepping down powder a little at a time from what you do find published until you find a load that you like, or you get another pard who has a load built the same way who shares data with you. There's not a lot of SAFETY risk with decreasing powder weight in a load (and thus chamber pressure and velocity), but you do HAVE TO BE AWARE OF GOING SO LOW ON POWDER AS TO MAKE AN INCONSISTENT performing shell. The big danger - squibby shells that leave a wad stuck in the barrel which could bulge a barrel on the next shot, or even worse. You also have to be concerned that you have enough stack height (powder plus wad plus shot) that you can make a solid enough crimp to avoid shot leaking out! Next concern - TiteGroup is a fairly dense powder. The Clays or Red Dot you have been shooting are fluffy (low density) powders - only Trail Boss is significantly more fluffy. This leads to lower stack heights and poor sunken crimps that don't "seal" the petals at the center. So, fixing that? Use a tall wad....the pink Winchester-clone wad CB0175 from ClayBuster is often chosen, as it is one of the "taller" wads in any maker's 12 gauge wad line. Second suggestion - load in one of the smaller volume hulls. Any of the Remington target type hulls (STS, Nitro27, Gun Club, American Clay and Field). Or, the new Federal High Overall hull (which is just a maroon colored STS hull). Or, a Winchester AA-HS hull. Don't run yourself through the ringer and try to load very light loads in the econo Federal Top Gun, or any of the European hulls (Rio, Challenger, Nobel, Cheddite etc). Too much volume to have to fill to get the crimp to work well. Third (reluctant) suggestion - a little filler or an over-shot card or plastic disc over the shot. A Cheerio or similar cereal piece has been used by many light-load shooters. I avoid that, since I load on a progressive loader and don't like to slow down the process to stick something into hull after the shot drop. Fourth (even more reluctant) suggestion - trim hulls enough to make a good folded crimp, or even put a roll crimp on the light loads. I never would, ,though, and have never needed to. I find a light 7/8 ounce shot load in a Remington hull with a 7/8 ounce wad, with only enough powder to give me 1000 FPS, suits me just fine. Never have a knockdown fail to tip over, never have to worry with a flying clay bird, or a 20 yard KD target. Make a few slow 7/8 ounce loads - you may find you like them! The main "safety concern" that the powder makers who publish shotshell loads have is folks trying to load "too heavy" thinking that will kill more birds or varmints. So, they are quite concerned if you ask for anything outside of their pre-set range of chamber pressures that they consider best for conventional shooting (targets, upland game, rabbit and squirrel). But, they also want to be sure their published loads will cycle most of the semi-auto shotguns on the market. They get tired of answering mail (texts today I guess) saying - "Your starting load won't cycle my 3" chambered auto-go-boomer! They really don't worry too much about you modifying a recipe to go lighter, as long as you know how to stay away from squibby loads. If all you are willing to load is a published-minimum-load from Hodgdon, you are right, you won't find one light enough for pleasant Cowboy shooting. good luck, GJ

Look at the velocity variance of the 3.9 grain loads. Velocity range ran both lower and higher than for the 4.0 grain load. Sounds like that 3.9 grain load just was not a consistent performer. There should in general only be a slight increase in muzzle velocity going to 4.0 grains, but trying to compare one load that had velocities wandering all over to another more consistent load, it becomes to hard to draw much meaning in the differences. It's not a true decrease in velocity going with 4.0 grains, and if 25 rounds of each load were chronographed, the statistics would likely show a more realistic velocity average difference. "5 shot" velocity groups are suspect here. GJ

Use a diamond grit, small round ball-tip grinding bit and a Dremel or other rotary tool like a die grinder. Knock in a starting ding with a center punch where you want the retainer dimple. Then, secure the slide stop in a vise, brace your arms and carefully grind a single divot into that rather hard slide stop surface. Use other commercial slide stops as a guide. Grinding hardened steel is easier than spot drilling it. If you do put a stronger slide stop plunger spring in, it WILL make it slightly harder to operate the thumb safety. Not a problem in WB but if you need to shoot quickly for other purposes - consider if increasing spring strength is what you want to do. I've deepened worn dimples in slide stops before. It's pretty quick. good luck, GJ

Same as your new pistol powder - TiteGroup. It will make nice 7/8 ounce loads at about 1000 FPS that work well for Wild Bunch. Also, remember that if you find bottles of High Gun, it is EXACTLY the same powder as TG. (it's just a renaming thing from Hodgdon). Good luck, GJ

How About: Call Mernickle Holsters and tell them exactly what you wrote above. They will be honest with you about how any of their holsters will hold the gun. Cliff is one to ride the river with! good luck, GJ

That would make it a clean stage, yep. Drop mag at end and rack to slide stop to make sure the 1911 is open and empty. GJ

He did have 3 misses. He had a jam preventing firing on T5 of the second sweep. Yes, it was "engaged" when he attempted to fire at it. But no round fired on it, and he skipped 2 targets in the second sweep (I assume) without engaging T6 and T7. How many unfired rounds fell out of gun when clearing the jam are inconsequential. A miss on T5. 2 misses for T6 and T7 that he did not shoot NOR engage, and a P for not engaging T6 (also T7, but P already earned). But, I did not read in the "theoretical play-by-play" that the shooter EXPRESSED his decision to skip 6 and 7 target "to save time" - so it's real hard to read that into the shooter's intent and not simply accept that they were working from memory shooting sweeps, and with the fresh magazine they started on T1 again. IMHO. So, P and 3 misses. GJ PS - the definitions section of the handbook, of course, sets the meaning of the term Engaged on page 38

Buckshot - I know that the Red Dot you have a stock of would work REAL well for you. It was not on my list because here in the US, Alliant has not released any to the marketplace for 18 months or so now. Same reason my list did not include Clays - has been impossible to find ever since Ukraine was invaded. And, if you have a newly-made ADI powder that is a Clays replacement, that would work well too. GJ

If you are going to cite the VV powder company, then to be useful to the shooter, you should say WHICH of the several VV powders you see being used for WB. GJ

I'm not sure what availability of powders in Australia looks like right now, but to answer this with a US-suitable reply, I'd have to say TiteGroup (aka High Gun). A good replacement for both pistol cartridge and shotgun, but slightly louder report and can be slightly dirty at low pressure. Followed up with 700-X,Trail Boss, Bullseye, Solo 1000 and Winchester Super Handicap (won't be much data for these last two). If you have to drop to slower powders, then Unique or Win 231. We are not seeing any Alliant pistol/shotgun powders in our marketplace in US. good luck, GJ

You are correct on the rules as written. It may seem like a slight advantage is being given to the double shooter, but that disappears as you shoot, due to time needed to load and eject any additional pairs. And, no, a pump or lever shot gunner, does NOT get this advantage. GJ

You can use solid (no lightening holes) triggers on a Traditional gun, either with or without the "Overtravel adjustment" screw. If you get one with an overtravel screw, you can certainly adjust it to give you the overtravel length you feel comfortable with. Harrison Design has some triggers that are solid, have an overtravel screw (but the screw hole does not show from the face of the trigger), and are pretty reasonable and very reliable. Lots of traditional 1911s in WB carry their fixed sight sight blades - very nice. Take a look at this page: 1911 Triggers from Harrison Custom And you will see a short, medium and long trigger available. (HD-101, or 102 or 103, available silver or blue finish). good luck, GJ

No they won't. Only if they cocked that revolver and then de-cocked it - following having shot 5 rounds. The almost always occurring situation is they fire their fifth round and directly holster and the gun is safe for movement (hammer down on that last fired round) even if there is a live round in the NEXT chamber of the cylinder. That illustrates the possible safety impact of overloading a semiauto pistol as compared to the almost insignificant danger caused by overloading a revolver. Not totally OK. Penalty for overloading the revolver in Cowboy (usually assessed by the unloading table officer) is covered by a rule: Failure to adhere to loading instructions - which is a Stage DQ. good luck, GJ

This Artful Bullet article shows some good pictures of the three common 1911 lip designs. https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.php?threads/1911-magazine-feed-lips.9672/ Magazines with lips which uniformly narrow for the full length from the back plate of the magazine up to the release point of the round - those are THE BEST for a "round ball" load. That was what was provided in both WWs to shoot military ball. Often called GI-Ball or tapered lip design. Magazines with wadcutter type lips, also called controlled feed lips, usually have a good chance of feeding non-ball loads. Especially made for short stubby nosed wadcutter loads for target shooting. These wadcutter loads will often pop up the round too fast in a military (tapered) lip mag and lead to point-up jams against the feed ramp. The wadcutter lips are usually parallel at the rear for a short way, then open to a clean release of the cartridge at a specific point engineered for best feeding of wadcutters and the stubby hollowpoints. Most good quality magazines today are made as the hybrid design, combining a shorter taper section at the rear, and then an opening of the lips which allows almost the same type of controlled feed of the wadcutter magazine. Like Boggus, I like a magazine with hybrid lips for Wild Bunch, especially with bullet designs other than a 230 grain round nose. Hybrid lips give the most reliable feeding with a wide selection of bullet shapes and compositions, in my experience. good luck, GJ

Mine run 15 recoil, 19 main. You can easily tell if you're sprung correctly. Fire a couple mags of your match ammo from one spot. Look for the center of the pattern of ejected cases. Step that off from your shooting position. If closer than 5 feet, you are sprung stronger than needed. (results in harder slide pull than needed, and can get to where you get a failure to eject) If pattern is more than 10 feet away, you are too lightly sprung (can batter the frame and slide). And the recoil and main springs usually "balance with each other" best with the recoil being about 3-4 pounds lighter than the main. The mainspring bore in the grip housing often needs honing to remove the roughness from factory machining. good luck, GJ

Simple answer is - yes, a 38 Spl rifle will be legal, especially since you already have it. And - Yes, current PF minimum is 60 for Rifle. If you need to access the handbook - it's at: SASS Rule Handbooks page Welcome to WB! GJ

Model 25 is not legal (currently). If you can run a "short mag tube" shotgun with some single-loading required, go for it. You will likely be slow on a 6 shell stage. good luck, GJ

Not legal, if they extend below the frame. Can you return 'em? Good thing to read the rules before buying, or attend a match, or even ask here. Buy good quality mags - 1911 is a finicky gun with the wrong combination of ammo and mag and then perhaps a factory stock (non-tuned) gun. With Tripp mags I can run almost any ammo. Colt, most. MANY other mags - always a problem of some sort. good luck, GJ

Considering the fact that the current administration is trying to attract shooters to Wild Bunch who refuse to buy a 40 caliber or higher gun, or even load a heavy factory type load in .38 special, I'd say the politics would prevent it. Even if it would be ballistically feasible. GJ

Hmmm, 20% of the shooters were dangerous enough to earn a SDQ or two? Seems to say there needs to be MUCH better introduction of new shooters to the safety precepts common to all kinds of action shooting, but especially with the 1911. None of our SDQ penalties are for a trivial safety malfunction by shooter, except for shooting out of category. good luck, GJ

You answered your own question there, EC. Yes, a good load like that CAN work in a .38 special case if you "shoot for" the 150 PF target. GJ

There is NO standard course of fire for Bolt Action Military matches (BAMM). The match director, if they are being shooter-friendly, should publish the course of fire that they have decided to use with any match invitation. That way, the shooter can come with proper ammo and any other equipment that may be allowed. Shooting a few BAMM matches is the best way to find out how to put on one. Not everyone has that much ability to travel to the bigger Wild Bunch matches where BAM matches are held (like EOT or Land Run, for example). Yes, I have set up up at EOT as a BAM match director. So - I'll describe the general approach I've seen at four different venues, and used for EOT. BAMM is usually considered to be a "combat-shooting" match, using, of course, WW II or earlier military rifle designs. Because many ranges have no more than about 100 or 200 yard bay lengths, the setting of targets out to those distances is common. Shorter than 60 yards or so, usually is not considered much of a challenge other than just working the action and reloading. Use of fairly strong targets and stands is needed, as a military rifle of those times can throw a cast bullet of 150 grains or so at up to 2000 FPS. Jacketed bullets usually are not allowed due to damage to all but heavy armor steel plates, and the facts that folks love to hear the targets ring and don't like tramping down 150 yards to patch paper targets, or reset heavy knockdown targets. Since some of the "poster boy" rifles for BAMM are Mauser 98s and Springfield 1903 designs, and they have 5 round built-in magazines, usually the match consists of shooting 10 or 15 rounds in sets of 5 shots, which will take about 40 to 60 seconds, usually with the reloads "on the clock". If possible, target distance is varied to encourage understanding use of sights and hold-offs. Sometimes using shooting sticks or benches is allowed, but some of the more fun matches either shoot all rounds off-hand unsupported, or use a variety of standard military shooting positions, like kneeling, sitting and off-hand. Prone, not so much if you will require shooters to get into position and recover after shooting, all while on the clock (consider your shooters' physical capabilities). Scoring is USUALLY like most long-range rifle matches - number of hits during the run, with ties decided by lowest time to get those hits. I've shot in one BAMM that scored it like a main-match stage (lowest time after adding in penalty times for misses), but then the match rewards speed over accuracy (which was not the design purpose of bolt action rifles - to "Project Power At Distance"). So, because of a variety of potential course layout, number of rounds fired, target distance, shooting positions and even the scoring method, now you may understand why you want to publish the course of fire to be used AHEAD OF THE TIME THAT FOLKS TRAVEL TO THE MATCH. However, I've not seen one yet which accomplished that. So plan ahead. I usually take at least 50 rounds of ammo loaded to 1800 FPS to a BAMM, a rifle that I have sighting dope for 50 to 200 yards (even 300), several stripper clips, shooting sticks, a mat, and a spotting scope. One of the biggest deterrents to getting good attendance at BAM matches is the need for shooters to reload fairly accurate, rifle caliber, moderate power cast bullet loads - not something many folks know how to do. And commercial ammo loaded like that is real hard to find. Even if the venue has a suitable bay or rifle range and strong steel to shoot BAMM on. good luck, GJ

Yes, that SASS alias rings a bell with me. A few years back, I used to see it in some of our forum discussions. If I remember correctly/ A SASS Alias name is requested by a member as part of their shooting personna. If the requested name meets SASS guidelines and is not registered as a SASS alias yet, the SASS office assigns the requested alias to the member requesting it. Then, when they shoot or converse here on the Wire (forums), the alias name is used rather than real names. Never have heard of a family member asking about an alias being assigned to one of our members. If you have a serious concern, then you should contact the SASS office by email or phone. good luck, GJ

Rough rails on the frame or in the slide are not really a function of the steel forming method! Sounds more like the machining on the Rugers was quite a bit smoother than the "forged frame" guns. Honing or polishing the rails a bit will make almost any gun feel smoother, and probably increase the slide closure speed, SLIGHTLY. You are confusing the machining finish that was put on the frames and slides with the process of producing the raw frame before any machining was done, and attributing a poor surface finish to "forged frame/slide". When the rough finish was almost certainly due to machining quality (fit and finish), not the process of making the raw frame or slide. I think the operative phrase you already used is "I dunno" 😀 I have two Colts, both with forged frames. The one made about 1974 was smooth from the factory. The newer one made about 2000 was rather rough until I polished the rails on frame and in slide. But even then, the rough feel on the 2000 Colt did NOT cause the gun to fail to feed. It just made it feel clunky when racking the slide. But, I do understand that you can't go buy a 1970's made forged frame to check this for yourself. good luck, garrisonjoe