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Some Bamm rifle questions

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Tried one match at Illinois state and I'm hooked, I do have a couple of questions.


I have a Remington Model of 1917 made July, 1918. My rifle has the five groove original barrel stamped 4-18. I can't slug and measure the five groove barrel, does any one shoot one of these who can suggest the best bullet diameter to use? I did try some ammo that Shell Stuffer had loaded using .310" bullets with gas checks.  We were getting some leading initially (just under 1500 fps) but the next day after a thorough cleaning, I shot the fifteen shot match. I was still hitting the targets with the last shots and had very little leading when I cleaned the rifle later. I think a bit larger bullet might eliminate the leading but wanted to hear from anyone else who may be shooting a 1917.


I also have an Enfield No. 4 mk II. The mkII's were introduced in the fifties although they differ only slightly from the mkI's used in WWII. The rules allow a "close copy" of a qualifying rifle in competition. Is my No.4 mkII a legal Bamm rifle?

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We that shoot BAMM with a 30 Cal Rifle in our area use a 170gr gas check bullet sized to .310 running at 1550 fps.  This combination has proven to be an extremely accurate load in the 1917's, 1903's and the 1903A3 rifles.  Your Enfield No. 4 MK II is legal if it is period  correct with the iron Battle Sights and has not been Sporterized

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If you didn't clean the barrel of ALL copper fouling, before shooting that first batch of lead bullets, that would be a real good reason you had some leading. 


Clean barrel real well, until a barrel has been wet with solvent overnight, and you start getting clean patches after all the green/brown copper fouling is out.


Then check accuracy with your lead bullet load, bet it will be better.  At 1500 FPS, only a real lousy bullet and lube will lead up a barrel in good shape and only shooting lead bullets. 


Remember a real good cleaning if you shoot any jacketed slugs later, repeat the rigorous cleaning.


1917s ought to shoot a .310 size bullet.  I usually go up to .311 myself in my Springfields.  Remington put real good quality barrels on those, so it may still be a very good barrel.  Most folks have best luck stretching the bullet out so it almost touches the lands in the barrel, just ahead of the throat.  But if you go too long, jamming bullet tip into the lands, you will see rifling marks on a chambered and extracted load, it can increase pressures, and you can end up sticking bullet so bad it pulls out of case when you have to remove an unfired cartridge.  Avoid getting contact with the rifling with your cartridge length.


Good luck, GJ

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Thinking back, I believe the bullets in the rounds I used may have been designed to accept gas checks but were not fitted with them. I had cleaned the copper from the barrel, it took the better part of three days, and 'Stuffer cleaned it with Remington 40x bore cleaner just to be sure. I'm certain there was no copper fouling left. I guess I'll try to find a vendor selling suitable bullets with gas checks. I'll probably cast my own once I settle on a bullet design and diameter. I'll probably try the .310 or .311" with gas check to see how they work before investing in moulds and sizing dies.


I've started the process of removing copper fouling from my Enfield and my model 38 Swedish Mauser (Husqvarna 1942) as well. I also have a Spanish Mauser model 43 in 8mm that I'll get to sooner or later-life is good.


All of my rifles were purchased about 20 years ago and have very good bores. The quality available back then was much better than most of what I see today and the prices were ridiculous, Enfield $89, Swede $119, Spanish Mauser $140 and 1917 $200. None are for sale!


Thanks for the replies.

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Enfield $89, Swede $119, Spanish Mauser $140 and 1917 $200.

:P SOOoooo jealous! I'd love to find a Lee-Enfield SMLE for $89 bucks today.


My first rifle was a Mauser 1888/08/36 (Turkish) purchased from Big 5 Sporting Goods store back in the '70's for.....$25 dollars. It was stacked in a wooden barrel full of Mauser's. Needed an extractor replaced and cleaned but has been a straight shooter since then.


Wondering....would this rifle be allowed? It was re-arsenalled by the Turks, I believe in 1908 and then again in 1936, hence the nomenclature. The original sleeved barrel replaced at some point, but I have no idea when, but otherwise it's all original.

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My Enfield was produced in 1954 and had been arsenal refurbished at some point. The front sight was wrapped with protective adhesive tape that was yellowed, dried out and cracked-I'm pretty sure it had never been out of the crate after the refurb. The vendor had crates of rifles of all kinds in vg-exc. condition.  I hand-picked mine out of a crate of similar, all very nice Enfields. This was common back then. I also bought a crate of Brit .303 ammo in the "sardine cans." The ammo was Greek, non-corrosive boxer primed in stripper clips and bandoliers headstamped HXP. As I recall, the crate was 600 rounds and cost $80. I still have one of the two cans-unopened.
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