Jorge Posted June 29 Share Posted June 29 It may seem that some Model 12's prefer a certain shell to function/cycle well. Hull and shot weight being two factors. One of mine may work better with a 1 1/8 oz. shot load. What set of components seem to work well for successful reloading in order to enhance good operation of the Model 12. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boggus Deal Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 As long as it’s not a 3” Duck gun, I’ve not had a problem with anything 2 3/4” in mine and the ones I’ve built. some people will tell you need a shell guide on the carrier but I’ve only found them to be rarely needed. Some self proclaimed experts will tell you need to lean to gun over to the left to make them feed. You don’t. A plug for my firing pin here. It does make the gun work smoother, more reliable and unlike other replacement firing pins on the market, you can dry fire it until your arms wear out and not break it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deacon KC Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 7 minutes ago, Boggus Deal said: As long as it’s not a 3” Duck gun, I’ve not had a problem with anything 2 3/4” in mine and the ones I’ve built. some people will tell you need a shell guide on the carrier but I’ve only found them to be rarely needed. Some self proclaimed experts will tell you need to lean to gun over to the left to make them feed. You don’t. A plug for my firing pin here. It does make the gun work smoother, more reliable and unlike other replacement firing pins on the market, you can dry fire it until your arms wear out and not break it. What's the link for your firing pins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boggus Deal Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 3 minutes ago, Deacon KC said: What's the link for your firing pins? Deacon, no link yet. PM me a number I can text or an email and I’ll send info. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorge Posted July 1 Author Share Posted July 1 hey Bogus, Thanks for hijacking the thread! I have bought two of your firing pins though. However, as noted in the OP, I was inquiring about the RELOADING components for shotgun shells, not the parts for the Model 12. The parts in the '12 may come next, however Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 (edited) The Wild Bunch pump guns (models 12, 1897) are not very picky about the 12 gauge loads you can feed them. Like most pump guns, keep the mouth edge rolled over with a little taper and avoid a nailhead or bulge in the hull mouth that is larger than the normal hull diameter, so the rounds enter chamber easily. A good shell checker gauge that you can drop your loads into to check the mouth and brass (aka, head cover) diameter is really valuable. Several are around the market. Boggus has made one that works fine. Load to a performance level that is comfortable for you to shoot. Lots of folks like 7/8 ounce of shot at 850-900 FPS. A little more for my needs - 1 ounce at 1050 FPS or so. There aren't really any "magic" components that make a magic load. Many powders, many wads, almost any primer will make a gallery type shotgun load that works in a pump gun. If it feeds and fires 100%, it's golden for Wild Bunch. good luck, GJ Edited July 1 by Garrison Joe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorge Posted July 1 Author Share Posted July 1 Garrison Joe, Thanks, I doo all of that. My issue is that the shells do not always clear the magazine onto the carrier. I have cleaned the magazine tube. It "seems" that a heavier loaded shell (> 7/8 oz) seemed to have more momentum to clear the mag tube and get onto the carrier. Of course, it seems intermittent. User error is possible, but this is even with a firm pump for the first round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe Posted July 1 Share Posted July 1 A well running pump will spit light shells OR heavy shells out of the magazine onto the carrier. A weak mag spring would be the first thing to check. Next thing to check is dirty or worn shell stops. It's almost certainly not the ammo causing failure to remove shells from the magazine easily. Try factory loads as a test if you need to convince yourself. If they also hang up, then that proves it is the gun or short-stroking while running the action. good luck, GJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorge Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 I'll check on the mechanism. I presume that you mean the cartridge cutoff (shell stop)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Yep, shell stops are also cartridge stops and cartridge cutoffs. "Shells stops" sure are easier to type without having to correct spelling. My Radocy Win 97 Disassembly/Reassembly Manual calls them shell stops in writing. Chicone "Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West" - shell stops. JB Wood - "Firearms Assembly and Disassembly - Shotguns" - shell stops. Think I can keep on calling them shell stops, too, and be in good company. 😉 GJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boggus Deal Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Personally, I prefer to use what the man who developed and patented it called it. Thomas Crossly Johnson called it the cartridge cutoff. But what did he know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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