What 1911?

[Whitey James]

Before I ever joined SASS I knew I wanted to shoot Wild Bunch so I bought a brand new series 70 Colt in case I wanted to shoot Traditional. I have yet to shoot it in a match and have been shooting my Springfield Garrison in Modern.

Once I replace the short factory trigger with a long one I plan on shooting the Colt (hate short triggers on a 1911)

Thought it might be fun to see what everyone is using.

[Garrison Joe]

Colt Series 70s for Traditional.  One I've had since 1973 - that's still my main match gun.  Have a backup built in the 90s, needed more smoothing and tuning.  Medium trigger, flat mainspring housing. Replacement 10-8 rear sight and custom front dovetail sight.  Springs tuned for 160 PF loads. 

good luck, GJ

Edited November 13, 2024 by Garrison Joe

[El Chapo]

I plan to shoot my Kimber that I've had for 20+ years in modern.  I could be persuaded to buy one of the cheap guns for traditional but I don't own a traditional 1911 right now.  I can polish everything up to my liking so a cheap gun is fine.

 

I don't own any Colts and I don't see myself ever owning one.  I don't really understand the appeal.  If I was shopping 50 years ago and that was what was available, it'd be different.

[Boggus Deal]

51 minutes ago, El Chapo said:

I don't own any Colts and I don't see myself ever owning one.  I don't really understand the appeal.  If I was shopping 50 years ago and that was what was available, it'd be different.

But a Colt will always hold its value. Everything else is, well, not a Colt.

[Whitey James]

I have wanted a Colt 1911 since I was a kid (when Colts were the only 1911's, now everyone makes one). I have bought 2 Springfields, 1 Remington, and 2 Ruger 1911's (one of the Rugers is in 10mm) but the only Colt I own is a new version Anaconda so I decided that my collection is incomplete without the brand that started it all!

Edited November 13, 2024 by Whitey James

[Garrison Joe]

This was just a survey, AFAIK, so I see no need for folks to run down others' opinions.   State what you like and leave it at that, right?  GJ

[Whitey James]

25 minutes ago, Garrison Joe said:

This was just a survey, AFAIK, so I see no need for folks to run down others' opinions.   State what you like and leave it at that, right?  GJ

Yes, just curious as to what everyone is shooting. Trying to spark some life into this forum.

[Deacon KC]

Running a Tisas Milspec right now. Gonna have the front sight replaced with one that is a bit taller.

[Frederick Jackson Turner]

I like the idea of adding a bit of fun to the proceedings, Whitey!

Series 70 Colt for Traditional. Les Baer Premiere for Modern.  Seems to be working out!

Cheers,

FJT

[Whitey James]

Top is my Springfield Garrison

Bottom is my Series 70 Colt

[Whitey James]

Tried shooting my Colt during the match yesterday and she still ain't quite broken in yet. Zero issues with the Springfield other that a squib load on the last mag of the second stage. The Colt needed help getting into battery a couple of times. Took it apart this morning, put some Flitz on the rails, worked it for a few minutes then cleaned it up. I had the same issue with the Springfield when it was new and now it runs like a top after doing the same and shooting it a bit.

Funny thing is that I never had this issue with my Ruger 1911's. I mistakenly let my 45 go several years back but kept the 10mm.

I don't know if it's because the Colt and Springfield are forged and the Rugers are cast?

[El Chapo]

On 11/13/2024 at 1:07 PM, Boggus Deal said:

But a Colt will always hold its value. Everything else is, well, not a Colt.

Ha, and every Colt is necessarily not a Browning.  It's not as if Colt is the "original."

[Garrison Joe]

On 11/17/2024 at 12:01 PM, Whitey James said:

The Colt needed help getting into battery a couple of times.

Newish Colt 1911?   They no longer polish/tune the feed ramp and round over the top entry into chamber like they used to.  With lead bullets, it's important for 100% feed.  FMJ round will feed fine where lead slugs are much more likely to stick on ramp or at barrel/ramp joint.  Most other gun makers don't do as well as 50 years ago either.  So, first thing I do with a new 1911 is lightly polish the feed ramp (cratex bob) and take sharp edge off top 1/3 of chamber entry.  I also make sure the bottom of barrel entry is exactly matched (blended) to the top of the feed ramp with the barrel fully forward in the frame.  Rare for factory to get that junction exactly right.  A 1911 is not considered broken in until I have 300 factory-power rounds through it.

And, I also check extractor tension and shape.  Most have bad hook angles, rim clearance, and at least one edge that is sharp and can grab the rim as it feeds.  Some are tensioned a little too tight, too.

good luck, GJ

 

 

[Sgt Hochbauer]

I had a Taurus 1911 and it worked fine for me. But inherited a series 70 Colt. It also came with a .22 Colt conversion. That said the Taurus is now being enjoyed by someone else.

 

Hochbauer

[Garrison Joe]

On 11/17/2024 at 12:01 PM, Whitey James said:

I don't know if it's because the Colt and Springfield are forged and the Rugers are cast?

A failure to feed and chamber is almost never due to the frame manufacturing process.  Ruger has proven they can investment cast steel parts to tight enough dimensions to launch space missions.  Shooting matches demand less than that.  While frame manufacturing process MIGHT make a difference is in how long the frame will stand up to maximum strength loads, I would not put the difference in feeding reliability on that for a new gun.     Maybe after 100,000 rounds you will see a difference.

No, you have one of several likely causes in failure to feed. 

First most common I find is: ammo that is not to spec.  If you don't have and use a loaded round gauge to check your match ammo and your loading die settings, you are not being serious, especially as a cast bullet loader!   Bullet seated too far out of case and the nose of the slug hitting the VERY SHORT forcing cone of a 1911 barrel is most common problem.  

Second most common: using low price/quality magazines.  Run a few true Colt, Wilson or Tripp mags with your ammo and gun, and see what you get.  IF good mags fix things, you may not need to look for more gremlins.  

Feed ramp smoothness and transition from ramp into chamber of barrel is important.   "3 point jams" (look them up to know what they look like) often come from either the feed ramp of the frame or sharp chamber mouth edges at the back of the barrel.  In the period from 1950 to 2000, NRA bullseye shooting was a major use of 1911s, using lead semi-wadcutters and low power.  All 1911s back then had to go to a gunsmith to be tuned in the ramp area, chamber, springs, slide fit, smoothness to shoot bullseye matches flawlessly.  Most still need at least a little smoothing and tuning to shoot WB power level lead bullets, even the Round Nose designs.

Included in that tuning is shaping and tensioning and smoothing the EXTRACTOR.  Perhaps the most important single part in the gun for correct extraction AND FEEDING.

But as was mentioned before, if you have not run at least 300 factory level rounds through your 1911, it's not broken in yet.  Clean every hundred.  Lube as the various lubrication guides for the 1911 show at each cleaning.  Don't take guns to serious WB matches until you have got the gun to be able to run 250 rounds of your ammo in a single match.  Pushing a gun into a match too early (before you and it and your ammo loading is right) will just sour you on that gun for a long time!  Folks who need a shorter "startup time" than that, ought to let a skilled 1911 smith do it for them.

good luck, GJ

Edited January 6 by Garrison Joe

[Deacon KC]

+1 on the magazines, add MecGar to the list of good mags. KimPro magazines are very good, but the standard Kimber magazines are a crap shoot. I always swap out all the springs with a Wolff spring pack whenever I pick up a used 1911. Also, this is extremely rare, but there can be a burr on the barrel bushing, which can drag on the barrel. Look for a lengthwise scratch on the outside of your barrel if you suspect this, but it is one of the very last things to suspect.

[Whitey James]

On 1/6/2025 at 1:14 PM, Deacon KC said:

+1 on the magazines, add MecGar to the list of good mags. KimPro magazines are very good, but the standard Kimber magazines are a crap shoot. I always swap out all the springs with a Wolff spring pack whenever I pick up a used 1911. Also, this is extremely rare, but there can be a burr on the barrel bushing, which can drag on the barrel. Look for a lengthwise scratch on the outside of your barrel if you suspect this, but it is one of the very last things to suspect.

I used to only buy Wilson Combat 1911 mags but have bought a few Metalform 7 rounders for WBAS. They have not given e any trouble yet and easy on the wallet.

Edited January 8 by Whitey James

[Whitey James]

On 1/6/2025 at 10:24 AM, Garrison Joe said:

A failure to feed and chamber is almost never due to the frame manufacturing process.  Ruger has proven they can investment cast steel parts to tight enough dimensions to launch space missions.  Shooting matches demand less than that.  While frame manufacturing process MIGHT make a difference is in how long the frame will stand up to maximum strength loads, I would not put the difference in feeding reliability on that for a new gun.     Maybe after 100,000 rounds you will see a difference.

No, you have one of several likely causes in failure to feed. 

First most common I find is: ammo that is not to spec.  If you don't have and use a loaded round gauge to check your match ammo and your loading die settings, you are not being serious, especially as a cast bullet loader!   Bullet seated too far out of case and the nose of the slug hitting the VERY SHORT forcing cone of a 1911 barrel is most common problem.  

Second most common: using low price/quality magazines.  Run a few true Colt, Wilson or Tripp mags with your ammo and gun, and see what you get.  IF good mags fix things, you may not need to look for more gremlins.  

Feed ramp smoothness and transition from ramp into chamber of barrel is important.   "3 point jams" (look them up to know what they look like) often come from either the feed ramp of the frame or sharp chamber mouth edges at the back of the barrel.  In the period from 1950 to 2000, NRA bullseye shooting was a major use of 1911s, using lead semi-wadcutters and low power.  All 1911s back then had to go to a gunsmith to be tuned in the ramp area, chamber, springs, slide fit, smoothness to shoot bullseye matches flawlessly.  Most still need at least a little smoothing and tuning to shoot WB power level lead bullets, even the Round Nose designs.

Included in that tuning is shaping and tensioning and smoothing the EXTRACTOR.  Perhaps the most important single part in the gun for correct extraction AND FEEDING.

But as was mentioned before, if you have not run at least 300 factory level rounds through your 1911, it's not broken in yet.  Clean every hundred.  Lube as the various lubrication guides for the 1911 show at each cleaning.  Don't take guns to serious WB matches until you have got the gun to be able to run 250 rounds of your ammo in a single match.  Pushing a gun into a match too early (before you and it and your ammo loading is right) will just sour you on that gun for a long time!  Folks who need a shorter "startup time" than that, ought to let a skilled 1911 smith do it for them.

good luck, GJ

I dunno. I have had two Ruger 1911's that needed no break in. Never once had a malfunction. My other 1911's all needed to be broken in to become reliable. I used some Flitz on the rails of my Springer and it smoothed up nicely. feels like butter now.

[Garrison Joe]

Rough rails on the frame or in the slide are not really a function of the steel forming method!   Sounds more like the machining on the Rugers was quite a bit smoother than the "forged frame" guns.    Honing or polishing the rails a bit will make almost any gun feel smoother, and probably increase the slide closure speed, SLIGHTLY.   You are confusing the machining finish that was put on the frames and slides with the process of producing the raw frame before any machining was done, and attributing a poor surface finish to "forged frame/slide".   When the rough finish was almost certainly due to machining quality (fit and finish), not the process of making the raw frame or slide.   I think the operative phrase you already used is "I dunno"   😀

I have two Colts, both with forged frames.  The one made about 1974 was smooth from the factory.  The newer one made about 2000 was rather rough until I polished the rails on frame and in slide.  But even then, the rough feel on the 2000 Colt did NOT cause the gun to fail to feed.  It just made it feel clunky when racking the slide.

But, I do understand that you can't go buy a 1970's made forged frame to check this for yourself.

good luck, garrisonjoe

Edited January 8 by Garrison Joe