Deacon KC

I wanna run this mud puppy!

Doc, I like all your ideas, I will add these: 1, Continue to allow .38 rifles, but put a minimum Power Factor in. No Mouse Phart Loads. 2. Open the handguns back up to allow Lugers, Broomhandles, 1917s etc.

And from the rulebook Common Parameters - Barrel length must be five inches. - No barrel porting or compensators or other recoil reducing devices are allowed. - Barrel with standard barrel bushing. No Bull barrels are allowed. - Magazine wells may be beveled, but may not be oversized, extended, or flared. So I think it's gonna be illegal.

I think this is the frame used. The well is a machined part of the frame. https://www.caspianarms.com/receiver/race-ready-receiver-carbon

Joe, you are absolutely right. My gunsmith is moving his shop right now, so that might be delayed.

When reloading we all have made some rounds or inherited some mystery rounds that we want the brass for and have needed to safely pull components apart. I recently broke my old kinetic hammer and bought another, but doggone, if it isn't a pain to bang away on the garage floor to pull each round. So MidwayUSA give a birthday discount and mine happened to fall on an additional discount and a free shipping deal this year! So I decided to go ahead and splurge on one of these wall mounted bullet pullers. Just put it up today and tried it out. So here goes the review... First, it is extremely well packed with GREAT instructions. Not only clearly written, but with very good safety advice when mounting it. There are two ways for mounting this beast, depending on if you are putting it with a single stud behind it or a wider board. Made my marks so it would be vertical and it went up quickly and easily. You definitely want this mounted in solid wood, not drywall by itself. Operation is straightforward and well explained. You can use regular Lee shellholders instead of the collets included. As it comes, it will do one round at a time between emptying the catcher for the bullet and powder. You can run a length of 5/8" ID tubing into a container, which I will set up as soon as I run to the hardware store. AND....it works really well. Heavily crimped .45 Colt rounds popped free, most on the first pull and always on the second if needed. It is LOUD when it does it's thing, so be warned. Overall, I like it. It works and if I need to pull a bunch of shells apart, this will be a really good way to do it. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1022385082?pid=621674

Thanks Joe. I am trying to find out from Tisas' Importer SDS if the front sight is a wide or narrow tenon so I can do just that and swap out the sights for something easier to see and still be WB legal. I think the frame was a ceracoat of some sort from the factory and thankfully they didn't mess with that. The slide has definitely had some sort of coating on it, as the inside is still blued and a magnet will stick to it, so it isn't stainless. Took it into work today and the guys liked how it had turned out. As far as carry, I have a S&W Scandium Commander that is my regular carry gun.

Okay, the Tisas is back together. The trigger feels good but not spectacular, I will shoot it first, then decide if it needs a smith to work on it. Stuck with the blued bushing and then put the Ivory Eagle grips on it.

Thanks Joe, good advice. This will never be a BBQ gun, I went that route on a Super .38 some years ago [WHY did I ever let go of that gun?]. Got wood checkered grips right now that could go on it, the Ivory polymer ones have the Mexican Eagle on them and give good grip in addition to looking good. I will try out the bushings, now that it is clean I don't need a wrench on the factory blue one. Haven't shot the beast yet, wanted it clean first. The trigger was poor, but there was so much filth in there, it could not have been anything else.

Okay, question time. I have a stainless barrel bushing in the parts box, should I use it or the blued one for contrast? And should I stick with the factory plastic stocks or go with some actual wood or Ivory polymer?

Surprrisingly, after about 30 minutes in the acetone bath, the paint came off easily, revealing a good looking slide, which appears to be some sort of stainless steel because neither Oxphoblue or Black Magic would take on the slide! Then out to the garage workbench to smooth up some internal parts and finish the detail scrubbing on the receiver. Just like the top half, the bottom was totally filthy. Smoothed up the trigger bow and got rid of the rough/sharp edges on the grip safety. After measuring the springs, they are all where they should be, so I will try it with the factory springs, if they aren't good I have a set of Wolff's ready to go. I also took some 400 wet/dry sandpaper and got the surface rust off the barrel hood.

Pretty sure this is what this pistol started out as: https://tisasusa.com/tisas-1911-a1-service-45/ But I have NO idea what the previous owner of this gun did to it. I can say this much, he didn't have any idea of firearm maintenance! Anyway, it cam into the shop last week, I wound up giving it a basic cleaning and then bought it myself. Today, was detail stripping and smoothing of parts. I stopped and bought a metal bread loaf pan at Walmart along with 2 pints of nail polish remover, it's pure acetone, so it was just what was needed to strip the rattlecan gloss black paint off the poor little beast.

Well, I got it home today, and here are the pics of what I am starting with:

Well, I went and done it again. Went in to work today and my boss hands me a Tisas 1911 he bought yesterday and says This thing is NASTY. Can you clean it?" So I innocently go back to the counter where we keep the supplies. This poor little beast is beat up, somebody tried to make it look better by giving it a thick coat of shiny black rattle can paint [it didn't work] and it is so cruddy I have to take a bushing wrench to get the bushing to budge. Finally got the bushing loose, and yes, I did launch it when it finally came free, and then saw the filthiest 1011 I have seen in years. Seriously, only a loose 1911 or a Glock would run that dirty. Half an hour later, I did have it as clean as I could get it without detail stripping after a soak in mineral spirits. It now will cycle smoothly, so my boss gave me a good price and I will bring it home Saturday after payday. This poor little beast will get properly scrubbed, stripped and a decent finish applied. The it will serve as my new WB gun. Pics when completed.

Okay, I will put my 2 cents in here. I want to see WB grow. I hope that it becomes SO popular that one day we can see Zoot Shooting become a category. As a Zoot shooter I saw that perhaps it greatest draw was allowing the huge variety of firearms that could be shot. That being said, realize that I LOVE the 1911 and 1911A1. I have 6 of the beasts, ranging from a correct 1917 US marked 1911 to my daily carry gun a Scandium frame Commander. However, one way I believe we could make WB more enticing is opening up the handgun choices. In CAS we see Peacemakers, Remingtons, Schofields, Opentop Conversions, Bisleys, etc. This lets lots of folks shoot the guns they always dreamed of. Opening up WB Pistol to guns designed and used before the end of WW1 would encourage someone to break out their 1917 Colts or S&W revolvers, a Luger or Broomhandle Mauser. Use the same power factors as CAS to keep it simple. A shooter using a 1917 S&W or Colt with full moon clips could certainly be competitive. And if someone wanted to use a Tommygun, limit the magazines to 10 rounds. I understand that the title of our organization is SINGLE Action Shooting Society, but double action guns were common before the end of the 19th Century. Since WB is based on a movie set in 1916, those guns were certainly popular in this time frame.

Bear will you quit bragging? Just because someone made you a GORGEOUS holster rig, you wanna just show off! [Deacon wanders off whimpering cause his rig isn't that nice....] 😁

That's a beauty! Wish my WW1 P08 looked that good. And MecGar mags work really well in mine. And the Luger SHOULD be legal, it is a single action that was adopted in 1908!

If you have a pristine gun, think twice about cutting it. Maybe swap it for another one that is ready to go. If it's not-collectable, cut away if you want to!

That turned out real nice!

A fine write up and nice shooting too! Thanks!

What's the link for your firing pins?

Thanks for the update!

This x1,000!

Try Sarcoinc.com

Thank you Ma'am!