Deacon KC

Thank you!

Thank you!

+1 on the magazines, add MecGar to the list of good mags. KimPro magazines are very good, but the standard Kimber magazines are a crap shoot. I always swap out all the springs with a Wolff spring pack whenever I pick up a used 1911. Also, this is extremely rare, but there can be a burr on the barrel bushing, which can drag on the barrel. Look for a lengthwise scratch on the outside of your barrel if you suspect this, but it is one of the very last things to suspect.

Maybe we could see a trial run of a category allowing guns introduced before 11/11/1918. This would allow many shooters to use Lugers, C96 Mausers, 1917 Colt and S&Ws and Tommy Guns. This would also spark a great deal of interest among our fellow CAS shooters. Crud, maybe even allow the .388 Super in a 1911!

Since you are starting with the 1911, maybe look at a replica airsoft or pellet version of one in your basement until the weather is decent. At least get your hands familiar with the feel of the gun.

If I didn't have a good one already, I would consider that one! Good luck.

Check over at cascity.com they have a leatherworking section there.

Okay, am I the only one who keeps a Wolff 1911 spring pack on hand for when I buy a used 1911?

Soak it in Kroil for a couple of days, then try again using channel locks with a thick piece of leather to protect the finish.

1. A Tisas milspec or an Argentine with a colt slide that was fitted with target sights. 2. A S&W Scandium Performance Center Commander in .45ACP. 3. 6 here right now including a WW1 Colt 1911. 4. When I was a kid, probably 10 or 11 years old.

That's the problem, it IS a dovetail cut! Driving us crazy. And I LOVE that gold front sight!

Okay, a word of warning. Rock Island's front sight slot is slightly bigger than most. We have been trying to get one fitted on a customer's gun and most standard front sights will not anchor securely without serious peening! Great guns, but this has turned out to be a royal pain to deal with.

Boyd's makes good stuff! Looks good.

Running a Tisas Milspec right now. Gonna have the front sight replaced with one that is a bit taller.

I wanna run this mud puppy!

Doc, I like all your ideas, I will add these: 1, Continue to allow .38 rifles, but put a minimum Power Factor in. No Mouse Phart Loads. 2. Open the handguns back up to allow Lugers, Broomhandles, 1917s etc.

And from the rulebook Common Parameters - Barrel length must be five inches. - No barrel porting or compensators or other recoil reducing devices are allowed. - Barrel with standard barrel bushing. No Bull barrels are allowed. - Magazine wells may be beveled, but may not be oversized, extended, or flared. So I think it's gonna be illegal.

I think this is the frame used. The well is a machined part of the frame. https://www.caspianarms.com/receiver/race-ready-receiver-carbon

Joe, you are absolutely right. My gunsmith is moving his shop right now, so that might be delayed.

When reloading we all have made some rounds or inherited some mystery rounds that we want the brass for and have needed to safely pull components apart. I recently broke my old kinetic hammer and bought another, but doggone, if it isn't a pain to bang away on the garage floor to pull each round. So MidwayUSA give a birthday discount and mine happened to fall on an additional discount and a free shipping deal this year! So I decided to go ahead and splurge on one of these wall mounted bullet pullers. Just put it up today and tried it out. So here goes the review... First, it is extremely well packed with GREAT instructions. Not only clearly written, but with very good safety advice when mounting it. There are two ways for mounting this beast, depending on if you are putting it with a single stud behind it or a wider board. Made my marks so it would be vertical and it went up quickly and easily. You definitely want this mounted in solid wood, not drywall by itself. Operation is straightforward and well explained. You can use regular Lee shellholders instead of the collets included. As it comes, it will do one round at a time between emptying the catcher for the bullet and powder. You can run a length of 5/8" ID tubing into a container, which I will set up as soon as I run to the hardware store. AND....it works really well. Heavily crimped .45 Colt rounds popped free, most on the first pull and always on the second if needed. It is LOUD when it does it's thing, so be warned. Overall, I like it. It works and if I need to pull a bunch of shells apart, this will be a really good way to do it. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1022385082?pid=621674

Thanks Joe. I am trying to find out from Tisas' Importer SDS if the front sight is a wide or narrow tenon so I can do just that and swap out the sights for something easier to see and still be WB legal. I think the frame was a ceracoat of some sort from the factory and thankfully they didn't mess with that. The slide has definitely had some sort of coating on it, as the inside is still blued and a magnet will stick to it, so it isn't stainless. Took it into work today and the guys liked how it had turned out. As far as carry, I have a S&W Scandium Commander that is my regular carry gun.

Okay, the Tisas is back together. The trigger feels good but not spectacular, I will shoot it first, then decide if it needs a smith to work on it. Stuck with the blued bushing and then put the Ivory Eagle grips on it.

Thanks Joe, good advice. This will never be a BBQ gun, I went that route on a Super .38 some years ago [WHY did I ever let go of that gun?]. Got wood checkered grips right now that could go on it, the Ivory polymer ones have the Mexican Eagle on them and give good grip in addition to looking good. I will try out the bushings, now that it is clean I don't need a wrench on the factory blue one. Haven't shot the beast yet, wanted it clean first. The trigger was poor, but there was so much filth in there, it could not have been anything else.

Okay, question time. I have a stainless barrel bushing in the parts box, should I use it or the blued one for contrast? And should I stick with the factory plastic stocks or go with some actual wood or Ivory polymer?

Surprrisingly, after about 30 minutes in the acetone bath, the paint came off easily, revealing a good looking slide, which appears to be some sort of stainless steel because neither Oxphoblue or Black Magic would take on the slide! Then out to the garage workbench to smooth up some internal parts and finish the detail scrubbing on the receiver. Just like the top half, the bottom was totally filthy. Smoothed up the trigger bow and got rid of the rough/sharp edges on the grip safety. After measuring the springs, they are all where they should be, so I will try it with the factory springs, if they aren't good I have a set of Wolff's ready to go. I also took some 400 wet/dry sandpaper and got the surface rust off the barrel hood.