Equanimous Phil

I guess those special powders like TB and RS14 are a good choice for casual reloaders like me because they're quite fail-safe. When I am not figuring out a new load I have a reloading session only about every other month, so there's quite a lack of routine. As we have only one active CAS club here in Switzerland I maybe use 1500 pistol rounds a year for the couple of shoots I attend and a few training sessions (no, I will never get really fast...). That equals 2 bottles of RS14 at max per year. For the rifle I load a higher PF and use VV N320. And I still buy factory 9mm which I shoot the most by far (IPSC). Probably the vast majority on such forums are experienced reloaders, shoot large amounts of ammo and maybe are loading for other family members, too. Then you have to think more economically, of course. I wonder what the price tag of RS14 will/would look like in the US, because if you have competitors prices are dictated by the market.

Objection, there's (at least) one. RS14 from Reload Swiss was introduced end of last year. But I don't know if it is already or ever will be internationally available, though the website lists USA and other countries. RS powders are made by Nitrochemie Wimmis. They produced some powders for other brands like Alliant and Hodgdon in the past. So RS14 may come to your market by a different name and brand. With Trail Boss gone, there should be some buyers! I am using 5.2gr of RS14 for my .45 Colt pistol loads with a powder coated 230gr RN bullet. I am happy with it, but load it for pistols only because of it's price tag, it's absurdly expensive! There are only 400 gram (ca. 0.88 lbs) containers available for 92 Swiss Francs, that's about 102 USD. As I don't shoot that much CAS I bite this bullet. Before, I was loading Vihtavuori N32C (Tin Star), but that is like TB no longer produced. RS14 is REACH compliant which is a European regulation. I hope (and assume) it is also compliant with international chemical standards. Something to read about RS14: https://www.reload-swiss.com/en/reload_swiss/produkte/rs20_pistol_powder/rs14_rifle_pistol_powder/index.php https://www.reload-swiss.com/en/reload_swiss/tipps___tricks/tipps_und_tricks_neu_1/einfuehrung_rs14/index.php Here's some loading data (there's a lot more calibers on their web site): Equanimous Phil

Put the gun on the workbench yesterday, removed the shim, and reassemled. No difference. Safety snaps off most of the time when pulling trigger. Gonna place an order for a new thumb safety (and new springs), and wait for the package to arrive...

Yes, probably the easiest thing to do. I will check with my local gun shops if they have matching a standard thumb safety on stock (gun has to stay Traditional legal). But I have to place an order anyway, because ... ... I have to order a couple of new springs, and the Flexihone tool. Many thanks for giving me a start what to buy! I just checked at Brownells for firing pin springs, they don't list the stiffness... Do you have a recommendation, Wolff, Wilson Combat, ...? Btw, the ammo I currently shoot is tailored to make 170 PF (suitable for IPSC Classic Division Major), but not chronoed with my gun yet. If there is a thumb safety on a gun I want it to be functional when I take it to the range! I will check the parts for marks. But it happened immediately after the installing and not shot yet, so probably not much to find yet. As written before, I will try it un-shimed with the gap and see what happens. Thank you very much for your inputs!!

I will try without the shim. The firing pin block and its spring is removed. Don't know if that matters: the gun still has its original springs (recoil, hammer, 3-leaf, firing pin). Besides polishing the trigger parts, ordering and replacing the springs will be the next step. I was surprised how stiff the firing spring and hammer spring are!

Howdy! The only 1911 I own is a .45 Auto Ordnance 1911A1 GI Specs. The gun hasn't seen that many rounds yet, somewhere around 1000, and I haven't modified anything so far to just let it break in. I just cleaned and lubed it a couple of times, but without disassembling the lower. The system is based on a Series 80 with a firing pin block. Due to its really awful trigger, I ordered a conversion shim (0.057") at Brownells and removed the pin block device yesterday. Everything looked good to me and the trigger improved very much. But now, when I engage the thumb safety and pull the trigger with some force, the safety snaps down and the hammer falls. This happens not all the time, sometimes it seems secure. I already disassembled and reassembled it a second time with the same result. I cannot exclude a 100% that this wasn't already an issue before the conversion. But I try to avoid reassembling those two finicky lever parts... What can cause this failure, what do I have to look for? Can it be an error in assembly? I can take and post pictures if that helps to find the problem. Any advice would be much appreciated! Phil

Good to hear that such buffers aren't needed. I left the buffer in for only one range session and immediately took it out because of said issues. The gun seems to work fine without the buffer and I never had any feeding issues. It is still stock as it came out of the box but besides a quite awful trigger I am happy with it. A shim I ordered from Brownells to get rid of the series 80 firing pin block just arrived. I hope installing it will improve the trigger a bit. I never paid attention where my ejected cases gather but I guess they take a good fly and don't just drop. I will watch it next time. I do not have the possibility to chrono my ammo. As I do not reload .45 Auto yet ( becauseI rarely shoot it) I bought rounds from a professional reloader. This ammo is intended for use in IPSC and supposed to meet PF of 170 (Major Classic Division) with a 230gr RN, so it's probably a tad hotter than the average WB load. Phil

Many thanks for the explanations on springs @Garrison Joe ! I'd like to ask if you use and recommend (rubber) recoil buffers for 1911s? I installed one (of unknown brand) in my Auto-Ordnance but I had issues. The slide didn't stay open with an empty mag while shooting and when open with a new mag I couldn't drop the slide by pulling it back. I had to press the mag release what I usually don't do due to my short thumb. So, I took the buffer out. Maybe I should try a different brand (Wilson?) or grind the thickness down somewhat? Phil

Thanks for pointing that out, I somehow missed the "use" part in the SHB. I stumbled across another line in the SHB. On page 20 it states that there's a 5 second penalty for "each unfired round". While the round was overloaded it is still a round unfired. I guess it is not the intention of the rule and it's ment to be only applicable for rounds supposed to be shot, but the wording is not totally clear.

Based on the information in the original post, the pistol does not necessarily left the shooter's hand between first racking and clearing it. And imho, even if it was restaged at a time it would/should have been caught then if it was loaded (but I am looking forward to the experts). So, I would call a P: Use of “illegally acquired” ammunition. (i.e., NOT carried to the line/staged by the shooter in an approved manner, or overloaded ammunition), WBSHB p.21 WBSHB p.31: Overloaded Rounds – [...] Pistol: Loading more than 7 rounds in a magazine and/or loading, during a course of fire, more rounds than the stage description requires. The clearing of the pistol was according procedure: UNLOAD and SHOW CLEAR: This means remove any live rounds and the magazine if one is inserted, WBSHB p.8

Thank you both for your inputs! Our TG is going to prepare something for one of our next shoots. I guess, we will combine a CAS event with some WB and see how people like it. One step after the other.. If WB actually becomes a thing at our club I am glad I can ask on this board for good advice and ideas! I wanted to go this summer to Philippsburg (Germany) to shoot the CAS match and watch some WB, but with all the uncertainties regarding travelling etc. I cancelled it and looking forward to next year. I am sure I will find a 97 some day as they show up now and then. Last year I missed an opportunity for a nice one as I hesitated too long because of the rather extortionate price tag. In retrospect, I should have grabbed it. For our local shoots something like a Remington pump would certainly do the job but if go to German matches in the future it needs to be a 97, I guess. I keep my eyes open :)

Hi Elwood Many thanks for your offer to help, that's very kind. But unfortunately, that will be impossible as I live in Switzerland. Our club seems to be the only active one around here. Our (CAS) monthlies are super small with a handfull of shooters. And what we call our Annual would equal a very small monthly match in the USA. But nevertheless, we plan to include some WB stages to have fun shooting our 1911s and stoke those 97s. As I wrote, the pumps are hard to find here, but some pards have one and will share. Phil

I am still quite new to the game and to the Wire, started in late 2018 with CAS. I visit the Wire frequently and I always found valuable information regarding the questions I had. Like in every other forum (and also real life communities) with a certain number of active members there are those statements you have to sort out. But even as a new member you can spot them or they are pointed out and countered by other members. Probably, there are some smoldering feuds I am not aware of. I try to rate a forum by the amount of positive inputs. The bigger the forum the more trolls and misinformation you have, but also the more good and interesting info. Often, with also newer members contributing to a conversation new aspects show up. My impression is that in smaller, more "encapsulated" forums often only very few very knowledgeable members who love their topic with heart and soul answer questions and this might lead to a lack of new ideas and aspects (please note that I don't think that's the case in the Wild Bunch Forum!). For a new member sometimes approaches and views of other rather new members can be more helpful and encouraging than the way it would be done perfectly. The input from one who only shoots once or twice a year may be objectively seen kind of disputable but for a new shooter who shoots also only 1 to 2 times a year it may be the right thing. That's my view as an outsider. I haven't shot any Wild Bunch yet, because there is no WB in my neck of the woods yet. Our club wanted to start last year but then COVID showed up... I shot my 1911 in a couple of CAS stages but I'm still in need of a 97 (or mod.12) that is almost impossible to find here. Phil P.S.: If there will be a ballot about merging forums or not I will abstain from voting.

Could you please elaborate what BS and mess you are talking about as I am not aware of that BS and any mess. Thanks, Phil

Thanks Dusty and Elwood for those links!

Sounds very interesting! Will it later be somehow available online by any chance (for international pards)? Equanimous Phil

No question, from a technical view, a dovetail would be the way to go! But for me, one fascinating part of our cowboy games is that we use gun models that were developed and used back then, with all their issues and flaws. If you improve and altere every detail of those old models, you would have a modern gun at the end. Of course, all of my cowboy guns have such improvements, like better steel, better springs etc. I've chosen the Auto-Ordnance 1911 because it's quite a close (and affordable) replica of the military A1 (besides the firing pin block). Despite dovetail front sights would be explicitely allowed by the handbook, it wouldn't look right to me somehow... If they repair it at no charge I can still have it dovetailed later if it happens again. Equanimous

So, last Friday I took the pistol out of the safe again This! I double checked the guide rod and indeed it was the part blocking the slide. Problem solved ;D Now, I have to contact the gun shop because of the missing front sight which should be a warranty issue. Equanimous Phil

Thank you for the inputs! :) I've tried that and had a look with a flash light, but I'll try again when I'm home from work. Can I disasseble it with the slide on? I'll have a look. Well.... it probably already happend (a couple of times) while fumbling the gun... Yes, had it cleared. Thanks for the link. It's a good video. I think I stumpled across that one when I disassembled it for the first time. I did it just 3-4 times so far, but never had this issue. To avoid any (or more) damage, I maybe wait 'til Saturday to meet my CAS pards at the range. I'll keep you updated. Equanimous

Howdy everyone! I am swiss CAS shooter and our club intends to start a bit with Wild Bunch shooting for fun :) For beeing able shooting traditional style, I bought the 1911A1 from Auto Ordnance which has a series 80s style firing pin block. It's my first 1911. The gun is NEW. After buying I disassembled, cleaned and oiled it. Then I shot a box of 50 rounds, and cleaned and oiled it again. Unfortunately, after the next 40 rounds the front sight came off, but that's not why I am posting. At home, I tried to disassemble it, removing recoil spring and cap, and slide release bolt as usual. But then, I was unable to move the slide forward to take it off. I racked it a couple of times, but still not possible to take it off forwards. I removed the barrel bushing which didn't help. While trying, the slide got stuck now about 1 mm forward from the normal position. It's still very very slightly movable. I can see the barrel chain link moving when turning the gun, so I assume it's not the problem. What else could it be? Extractor? Something from the firing pin blocking parts? And most important: what can I do? Though I will show the gun to my pards at the weekend who are experienced with 1911s, I'm just wondering what I messed up... And I probably have to take the pistol to the gun shop anyway, because of the missing front sight which I hope to be covered by warranty. Equanimous Phil