1911 Wilson Combat Semi-Extended Slide Stop Question

[JJ]

Not so sure if this the right place to ask this question however here it goes. 

A number of months ago purchased a stock GI Rock Island 1911 45acp with the purpose of making it into a 'Modern Category Shootin' Iron'. Many months later I very close to getting this gun ready to use in a WB Match. 

I just one problem yet to solve and it relates to the title of this thread. I purchased a Wilson Combat Semi-Extended Slide Stop for this gun. It looked cool on their website. Did not know this at the time of ordering that part. This slide stop does not come with the little drilled dimple hole on the end of the slide stop. The slide stops on my Colt MK IV and two Remington R1's all have a dimple drilled into the ends of the slide stop. Well that's not totally a correct statement. The Colt MK IV has a little grove cut into the end of the slide stop. I believe what the dimples/grove purpose is for is to hold the slide stop in position while firing so that the slide does not prematurely slip up and lock the slide back until the magazine is empty. 

It's amazing what Mr. Google can answer when asked the question of why the Wilson Combat Semi-Extended Slide Stop does not have the little dimple. Its answer was that Wilson Combat does not believe the dimple is required if the plunger spring is strong enough to hold the Wilson Slide Stop into the correct position until the magazine is empty. Fast forward a few weeks after the frustration of the slide locking back prematurely on numerous occasions and then discovering the original RI plunger spring was a little shorter (worn out??) than the springs in my other 1911's. Wilson Combat new stainless steel plunger assemblies were ordered and installed. Today while testing new ammo loads, the darn slide locked back while bullets were still in the magazine. So much for the thought that new plunger assemblies would fix the problem . . . . .

Well - to me there are three solutions:

1)  Place the original Rock Island Slide Stop back into the gun. It has the little dimple drilled into it.

2) Order another cool looking extended slide stop release from a different company that has the dimple drilled on the stop.

3) Find a way to drill a little dimple in the end of the Wilson Combat Slide Stop without spending another $75 dollars for purchase and shipping of a different slide stop. Any solutions on how to drill this little dimple would be greatly appreciated. I did attempt to drill a dimple into the end of the Wilson Combat Slide Stop. As I thought would happen, the bit just danced all around the end of the slide stop without biting. I thought perhaps could use a spring loaded punch for a marker and then with a carbide bit just tap a little dimple in??

Will be free to admit, I am not a real 1911 mechanic. I know enough to be dangerous and (more importantly) to severely limit my use of dremels on guns.  I enjoy the experience of learning new things and have had quite a bit of good advice from others on this forum. 

Any advice on how to correctly do this dimple thing would be appreciated. Much easier to ask for help than to spend another arm and leg on parts I have messed up. As another passing note about this project gun, am convinced when this project is finally completed probably could have purchased a new Kimber for less money :-). However, what would be the fun in that!

J.J. 

[Garrison Joe]

Use a diamond grit, small round ball-tip grinding bit and a Dremel or other rotary tool like a die grinder.   Knock in a starting ding with a center punch where you want the retainer dimple.   Then, secure the slide stop in a vise, brace your arms and carefully grind a single divot into that rather hard slide stop surface.  Use other commercial slide stops as a guide.  Grinding hardened steel is easier than spot drilling it.

If you do put a stronger slide stop plunger spring in, it WILL make it slightly harder to operate the thumb safety. Not a problem in WB but if you need to shoot quickly for other purposes - consider if increasing spring strength is what you want to do. 

I've deepened worn dimples in slide stops before.   It's pretty quick.

good luck, GJ

 

[JJ]

Mr. JG

Thank you for your answer. I read your response over a few times last night and again this morning. Ran out time yesterday for responses. 

Will follow your advise VERY closely. Ordered a set of diamond drilling devices for the rotary last evening to finish off this portion of gun project. The place the bits were ordered from say 'Delivery on Friday'. We'll see.

Now thinking it is time to replace the factory barrel. It rubs hard on many places. Its the only thing left to replace on this gun. 

Again - thank you 

Respectfully - J.J. 

[Garrison Joe]

On 6/12/2025 at 8:12 AM, JJ said:

thinking it is time to replace the factory barrel.

Big money to replace a barrel, especially if it shoots well as installed by RIA.  Lots of labor, as even the drop-in barrels often are not as easy as the name makes it sound.  And not a job for a first time 1911 surgeon, as some things require some special tooling and measurements.

So, WHERE on the existing barrel are rub points or tight spots when you install the barrel or work the slide with gun empty?  If replacing the barrel simply because of "rub marks"  - that is not very wise.   If you do not change dimensions where that barrel was fitted to the gun (the locking lugs, the under-lugs on the barrel, the chamber fit to the feed ramp, headspace, barrel hood fit to slide, or the last inch of the barrel where the barrel bushing rides, you can probably file and sand on your factory barrel to clean up cosmetic drag scars or slight rub marks.  Maybe take a few pictures of the barrel (or a disappointing target at 10 yards) showing what you don't like right now.  

good luck, GJ

(just GJ, or Joe, or you can spell it out, too.   And MR?   I keep thinking my Dad (a 1st Sgt in 82nd Airborne in three theaters in WW II) might be looking over my shoulder as I i write. ☺️) 

 

Edited 3 hours ago by Garrison Joe