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red cent

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Everything posted by red cent

  1. Red Dot is good, American select is gooder. They are almost twins. Expect about 20-30 fps loss in fps with American Select compared to Red Dot. I use AS for all SASS guns including the 45ACP, 45 Colt, 38 Special, and shotgun. Red Dot will get all the jobs done also.
  2. Happy Jack, I have competed in SASS for over 14 years. And I competed in WB side matches 10 years ago. SASS and WB will never settle the don't ask statement. The other day on the SASS wire, rumor had it that they were going to rule a certain shotgun belt illegal. Illegal after 10 years of use by many on the East coast and beyond. Recently, a shotgun belt was presented to the RO committee that I would never had thought to be legal and it was approved. During the fracas someone stated that all "stuff" should be presented to the RO committee for approval before someone starts mass manufacturing. I put that close to the front of my note book titled Some of the Dumbest Statements. Some may know I started making rigs and, being an A personality, I continue the search for THE holster. A person or two has stated that my recent holster is not "correct". As an analogy of the grips, the holster rule is so loose as to allow almost anything that doesn't lose the gun. Subjective? Sure it is. I have never argued a call on me in all my years competing in SASS or Wild Bunch. I accept the human factor for what it is. Fallible. I am a gamer. I never intentionally go beyond the rule, much less the "spirit of the game". But if someone calls a spirit of the game penalty on me, they are blatantly biased. Or I had a hell of a Elder Statesman Moment.
  3. Did not end definitely. It was stated that there was a spirit of the game for "over doing it". Since there is not any mention of the "groove" in the rule book, how can one be penalized on such a subjective subject?
  4. The mag release question prompts the question about thinning or buying certain grips that allow the thumb better "reach". I have read the rule book a couple of times and the only thing addressed are the wrap around grips, target grips, and thumb rest grips. It would seem that relieving that area is OK.
  5. I used to have a M97 that had a factory flaw. When cycling the action pointed up at about 45 degrees, a round would hang up as the action started to be cycled forward. After a lot of examination I discovered the ejector spring was about 1/8" too far forward. The ejector spring block was about 1/8" behind the spring. Every time I went for a clay it jammed. The rim of the round would snag on the ejector spring because of the flawed spacing.
  6. The M97 with the tube out 180 degrees will work fine. The pin won't catch the tube but it will work. Some 97s and M12s I have worked on will not bottom out easily. Even if I just removed the tube.
  7. With the interrupted threads, I would say they are jammed. I would take a mallet and tap the top of the magazine tube. Nothing violent. I believe this will move the tube down and easily unlock the threads. 97s are bad to do this.
  8. The 1911 needs a mix to run very good. The hammer spring should be factory if not a pound or two heavier. However lightly, it will slow the slide and muzzle rise is minimized. Oversize FPS, light recoils/reaction spring (I shoot a 12#er), slow powder with a heavy bullet.
  9. Grouchy, if you are running WB PF in the gun, the problem may be your mag spring. Does the slide lock open easily if you completely cycle the slide by hand (not flipping up the slide stop)? Does the follower tab contact the slide stop properly or strong enough. I run a 12# spring and a stock hammer spring. A stock hammer spring or a pound over stock helps to impede the slide and the gun will not rock up in the hand as much.
  10. The 1911 uses a locked system that remains locked until internal pressure decreases. As they unlock, the slide starts to move. The bullet is still in the barrel but will leave before the barrel drops unlocked from the slide. No matter what spring you are using, the spring will not influence the timing of the unlocking of the slide and barrel. You can fire the 1911 without a recoil spring with no damage. I have fired my National Match a number of times sans recoil spring. "Protecting" the slide with a heavier spring is not really..kinda true. The difference in a 12# spring and a 20# spring might be noticed after many, many, thousands of rounds are fired. John Moses Browning, in his writings and in his patent papers called the spring a "reaction spring". The main purpose of the spring is to return the slide to battery. Any other benefits are incidental. The erroneous information on heavy springs goes into the same category as "Shok-Buffs" and full length guide rods. They are not needed. My National Match came with a fl guide rod and I still use it. Don't need it but it works with it. ;D
  11. Rarely should you have to do anything with the feed ramp.
  12. He agrees with me on my assertions of a lighter reaction/recoil spring. I have always stated you need enough to cycle the action, strip a round and chamber it and return to battery. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=491378850966888
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