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Loading manuals will cover the loads. If the gun is originally chambered in .380 Auto and in good condition, just load for it. Concentrate on loads that just cycle the gun, as you don't want to break parts.

.45 auto is a low pressure round and does best with very fast powders. PP works, but I haven't seen any benefits and you use more powder than if you use BE, Red Dot, AA2, or 231/HP38.

Without going into my archives: .45 Auto cast bullet #452488, 195gn: Alcan 5; start 5.8gn, Max 8.5gn Hdy LSWC, 200gn; 9.5gn (someone's pet load, no start or max data) Spr TMJ-SWC, 200gn; 8.0gn (someone's pet load, no start or max data)

Don't forget the classic L-RNFPSWCBBHBWC

Fit, fit, fit. Diameter of bullet. What is his diameter pre- and post-seating? Is he swaging the bullet diameter down? Next, get a softer alloy (8-12 BHN). Unless he casts himself, he probably has an 18-22 BHN bullet. A clue to what is causing the leading is where the leading first begins to appear. If it appears near the chamber, chances are that bullet diameter or hardness are the cause. A diameter too small or an alloy too hard will allow high pressure gas to leak past the bullet, which erodes the bullet and leaves leading near the chamber. If the leading first appears on the leading edge of the rifling (if you imagine the bullet being pushed through the barrel, you will note that one edge of the rifling does most of the work of imparting a spin to the bullet. This is the edge you see when you look through the barrel from the breech end), the bullet might be too soft or the velocity too high. If the leading appears in the second (front) half of the barrel, the bullet is running out of lube.

Agree, harder than needed. Then again, pure wheel weights are harder than needed. If you get any leading, give them a very LIGHT tumble lube in Lee Liquid Alox or 45/45/10, and order 0.001" larger bullet next time. For softer (12-15 BHN), you can go to mastercastbullets.com, Missouri Bullets, or Penn Bullets. Alternatively, you can go to coated bullets (my favorite are Precision Bullet's Black Bullets that are swaged for uniform weight and dimension).

I find too many over lube their 1911s and the guns gum up. I think too many folks over lube their guns and they get problems and blame dirty powder. I find almost NO lube works great on all my 1911s--some have over 10000 rounds through them. If you get leading from the forcing cone on, your bullets are too hard or too small. Somewhere around 10 BHN is ideal for .45 Auto. If using commercial lead bullets, go to mastercastbullets.com, Missouri Bullets, or Penn Bullets and get their "soft" alloy (which are still much harder than needed). Has your friend ever slugged his barrel to determine the actual groove diameter? This will not only help determine the proper size bullet, but show any tight or loose areas in the bore--either will cause leading. He should use a lead bullet that is AT LEAST 0.001" larger than groove diameter. SAAMI specifies a 0.4520" jacketed and 0.4530" lead bullet for .45 Auto. Going larger (0.454" for reloaders) doesn't hurt anything.