Jack Spade

Try a flat mainspring housing instead of an arched one.  This lowered my grip just a little and took out most of the bite. 

One of my shooting buddies shoots a Tisas and has had good luck with it.  I polished stuff up for him and changed out some springs so it worked better for the wild bunch game and he has been pretty happy with it. 

23 hours ago, Hollifer A. Dollar said:

The clubs where I shoot local WB matches have used what some call "Mild Bunch" rules for a long time, in an attempt to get more participation -  any SASS legal rifle, any centerfire 1911, 87 shotguns OK, no power factors.  And, it worked!  We had a lot more shooters come out than if we had gone strictly by WBAS rules.  The new rules make almost all of that official & makes the double legal (which several potential shooters asked us to do, but we just offered to loan our 97s or 12s).  If the intent is to increase participation, then the rule changes will likely succeed.

All that said, I have always used equipment & ammo that conformed fully to WBAS rules & will continue to do so.  I have always enjoyed "old school" WB so why should I change?

Holler

I am with you Holler, and shoot with you, and will continue to use equipment that meets WBAS rules.  I don't really feel like letting people use other equipment is much if any advantage but if the people who shoot at that club feel different then just add an open category where you can shoot anything.  So you add the cost of a couple more ribbons, if it brings in more shooters that's a big plus. 

Thanks Boggus! 

After a search on here I didn't find this covered so I thought I would ask the question, how do you lube/grease your model 12 for running it in wild bunch?  Is there a video showing the lubrication/grease points to make the gun run fast and smooth?  I ask this because with a lot of guns there is a difference in how you lube/grease them for fast hard competition vs just casual shooting.  I know I grease my wild bunch 1911's very different. 

I hadn't seen it posted here but the CMP opened up round 4 of the 1911 dispersal.  They also changed the one in a lifetime ruling so if you received a pistol in round 1 or 2 you can now get a second one.  All the information is here https://thecmp.org/sales-and-service/1911-information/

Thanks for the input GJ!

GJ am I correct in assuming with the increased weight I can load to lower fps to make power factor and should have reduced felt recoil? 

Question for JFN or anyone else who casts, I have this mold but when casting bullets with it I seem to get bullets that weigh 243-245 grains, not 230.  To get them into the 230 range I have to add linotype at a ratio of 1 pound lino to 4 pounds lead.  I have debated just shooting the heavier bullets as less fps is needed to meet power factor thus less recoil.  I am powder coating these so no worries about leading.  Thoughts? 

I beg to differ, I have been using clean shot in 45 colt for several years and have been nothing but happy with it.  I haven't seen any indication of your comment that it changes it's mind with every shot. 

Another vote for E6000

My self and my friend Tex Avvy will be there. 

13 hours ago, Flying W Ramrod said:

The person inputting the scores, input stage 2 scores twice, for one posse.

Happens, just about, everywhere you have humans, being interrupted, inputting scores.

Thanks, I was just curious what happened. 

Just curious if someone could explain the scoring error that was corrected after the match and awards were done. 

Shot the Wild Bunch match with the Big Bend Bushwhackers at the Tallahassee Rifle and Pistol Club in Tallahassee Florida.  Managed to win the Traditional category and take Top Gun honors by .9 seconds over Colonel Kracken.  Sassy Slitheryn was the ladies Top Gun.  Colonel Kracken had the only clean match.  I think we had 10 shooters and some great stages.  The Auto Ordnance is in the shop so I shot my back up Springfield Milspec.  Was a very fun match and a great tune up before the Ides of March Wild Bunch match. 

I think the first thing I am going to try is an aluminum mainspring housing.  Don't care for the plastic ones.  I have a set of stag grips on it but they are thinner than the wood, maybe that added the extra weight.  I will weigh my magazines and see what I come up with.  No rail or anything not milspec on the gun except those grips.  I am going to have $2k in this $500 pistol before I am done! LOL! 

As the title states I have a 1911 I want to shoot in traditional class and decided to check the weight on a scale.  Turns out my milspec gun weighs 40.5 oz with a magazine inserted.  The scale I am using is pretty accurate but I am going to double check it. So how do you reduce weight?  Drill holes in the frame under the grips? 

I have tried longer and shorter with these 200 grain bullets.  The 230's that run are a tapered round nose shaped like an fmj bullet and are 1.26 oal.  So I think I have the problem solved.  I colored the frame feed ramp with a sharpie and then tried to chamber a round and I could clearly see where it was hitting.  Where the machining of the ramp ends going down into the mag well it had a pretty sharp edge.  I used 1500 grit sand paper wrapped around a .38 case and smoothed and beveled that edge.  The situation is much improved and I think I may do just a little more with the sand paper then polish it with flitz.   Thanks Garrison Joe! 

Did the shake test, extractor checks out ok. I seated the bullets deeper, still same issue.  Picture of the nose shows it hitting the ramp.  It does this no matter how you close the slide, sling shot or dropping the slide release.  I can jiggle the slide and it will go closed. 

I will give the things you mentioned a try. First will be seating the bullets deeper.  Yes the gun says West Hurley, NY on the right side of the frame.

I did a little searching on the net and discovered my gun is a made in Hurley pistol and they were known to have feed ramp issues.  Didn't know this before I bought it.  Here are some pictures of the jam and of the ammo I am trying to use.

My wild bunch gun is an Auto Ordnance 1911A1.  I have sent the slide to Bogus Deal and had better sights put on it.  Have polished internals, changed springs, honed mainspring housing, etc.   This gun runs 230 grain bullets just fine.  However, I have a bunch, over 3k of 200 grain round nose bullets that I would like to shoot.  I have loaded some of them and the 200's feel like they have lighter recoil than the 230's.  My loads are 4.2 gr WST in the 200's and 3.9 in the 230's.  Both of these loads average  160 power factor.  My problem is the 200 grain bullets will not smoothly feed the first round out of the magazine.  I have tried lots of different magazines, colt, springfield, mec gar and chip mccormick.  Have tried both 7 and 8 round magazines, the 8 rounds are a little better but still won't smoothly feed the first round.  After the first round, they feed smoothly from the magazine.  So I got to really looking at the gun and I noticed the frame feed ramp doesn't look right.  My buddy has the exact same gun and his feed ramp looks like the one pictured in the second photo.  The first photo is of the frame feed ramp in my auto ordnance.  The second photo is of the frame feed ramp in my para ordnance 1911 which will feed any of the rounds I load.  The third photo is of them side by side.  I know the angle of this feed ramp is pretty critical.  Is there a way to straighten this up at home or is this best addressed by a gunsmith?  Do you all think this will fix my problem?  Thanks. 

3 hours ago, Eyesa said:

Jack,

If you will separate, I'd be interested in the 9mm conversion with tool head at $100. Could do PayPal FF or personal check if you will. Let me know please.

Eyesa

PS. I'm Eyesa Horg over on the SASS forum

Let me let this run a few days and if I don't get any takers for the whole deal I will separate it.

This is a used dillon square deal b loader.  I got it in an estate lot that I purchased.  I have went through and cleaned and lubricated the machine.  I have loaded 45 acp rounds with it and it loads great.  I do not have any of the extra parts for it to convert it to small primers.  Asking $425 plus shipping.   For $100 extra I can include 9mm dies and conversion kit and a spare tool head to set it up. 

Thanks and I am going to look into building my own spring tester.  What I have is a bunch of new springs I bought that got dumped out of the package into a drawer and I have no idea what weight they are.